HYDERABAD: Enhancing the rustic, homey, and country-style culinary experience to a fine-dining level, Chef Shivneet Pohoja at ITC Kohenur brings the distinctive flavours of Mewat to the discerning palates of Hyderabad, all while maintaining the authenticity and soul of this cuisine.
Mewati cuisine, in chef Pohoja’s words, is ‘rustic’ and ‘robust.’ Yet, it is in the simplicity of this cuisine that novelty finds its space. “We were able to take five or six basic dishes and luxurify them,” the chef said. For their third edition of Kitchens of India (after successfully hosting Poila Boishak and Delhnavi Food Trails), ITC Kohenur hosts ‘Mewati Bhojan’ at Golconda Pavilion till October 15. “The dishes have been prepared by carefully observing the food culture in that region– how the migrants from Rajasthan and other parts of India got settled in a remote, rural part of Haryana and got influenced from the culture there. This, over the years made way for a unique blend of languages, clothes, festivals, worshipping practices and of course, food,” the chef explained.
The intense toil of agricultural labour is reflected in the robust flavour profile, featuring a liberal inclusion of millets to meet energy demands, complemented by the zesty kick of mustard and the wholesomeness of dairy.
Starting our journey with a Tadka Masala Chaas, which is a spiced buttermilk drink with ginger, green chillies and roasted cumin, for starters, we had Gosht Mewati Seekh, Bajra Tikki, Paneer Chingari, Murgh Shola and Macchi Alwari. Using charcoal is a common practice in the region, and the precise technique required to use it in just the right amounts can be quite challenging. Whether it’s for achieving the tenderness of minced lamb in Seekh Kebabs or the succulence of chicken pieces in Murgh Sholay, getting the fire just right enhances the entire culinary experience.
Here, chef did not forget to mention the common use of a sigri and most of the food still being prepared on a traditional chulha. Murgh Sholay was double treated with smoke, once on a sigri and another time with charcoal, ghee and cloves. An additional accompaniment, Sigri ke jheenge, despite there being no prawns in Mewat, but no less efficient in taste.
On the side, a cozy nook offered a delightful and satisfying choice: Bajre Ka Khichda, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian versions. The rich, earthy flavours of bajra are coaxed out by an overnight soak, and the khichda is prepared with corn, vegetables, and quintessential North Indian ingredients like ghee and garlic. The Bajra tikki deserves special mention, especially because the creamy centre hidden beneath the crispy outer layer pleasantly surprised us.
However, surprises were yet to follow as, for the main course, we were treated with much more nuanced flavours. Paneer Khas Bharat, which was an ode to ITC Grand Bharat in Mewat, where in the kitchen of ‘Aapas’ restaurant, they hand-crafted the herbs-pressed cottage cheese used in this dish. Then Prithvi Murgh Chicken, cooked entirely in a clay covering and induced with charcoal fire, had marinated chicken joints. What was surprising was the tangy flavour of Saag Ki Kadhi, which immediately brought back to the memory, the winter afternoons of North India.
Traditional Kadhi cooked with sarsaun (mustard greens), the ‘Saag’ that goes with ‘Makki ki roti.’ Representing Rajasthan was Dal Aravali, (however, southern Haryana is also replete with ranges of Aravali hillocks,) which comprises green moong black lentils, blended in a harmony of tomatoes, ginger and garlic. Junglee Maans, spiced up with some red chillies. For bread, we had Nau Anaj Ki Roti, made with nine different types of millet.
As any Hyderabadi table is incomplete without biryani, the chef specially mentioned the Mewati style — his version named as Mewati Gosht Biryani comprised of aged basmati rice, simmered with mutton and special North Indian Kagazi lemons. For Nimboo Subz Pulao, the chef used the pickled versions of these lemons with paper-like outer coverings (hence, kagazi) — all prepared in-house.
Finally, for dessert, we were introduced to Bajra Phirni, which had pearl millet simmered in milk in an earthen pot and some piping hot gulaab jamuns. Clearly, the amount of research and effort that goes into preparing a full-length menu to suit the tastes of the region is unmatchable.