KOZHIKODE: It is 4 AM on a Sunday. A group of experienced chefs are huddled around a table to start prep work for an iconic dish at a storied restaurant. They will be dishing out at least 500kg of the fare, which will see the venue through from late breakfast to late dinner. Set in the heart of the city and the minds of adoring aficionados, Paragon’s biriyani has made its place on the culinary map of the world.
Around 6 AM, master chef Vijayan Pillai walks in and lights up over 15 stoves, like a chief priest at his altar of fire setting the stage for the fulfilment of the body, mind and soul.
Paragon’s sublime fusion of aromatic rice, fragrant spices and succulent meats, and the flavours and textures they imbibe, is a cultural experience. Taste Atlas, a global cuisine guide, named Paragon one of the world’s most iconic restaurants — ranking it 11th among the world’s 150 most legendary eateries.
“At the Kozhikode kitchen, we work in two shifts with 16 dedicated chefs,” says Vijayan, the executive chef of the biriyani department. Affectionately called Pillai chettan, he has dedicated his life to Paragon, having completed 33 long years at the restaurant cooking solely its legendary dish. “There has not been a single moment in the last 33 years when I thought of leaving. I started my career at Paragon as an assistant chef,” he adds, turning back the clock. The combination of ingredients and the careful layering technique employed in the preparation of biriyani help produce a harmonious and unforgettable flavour profile. “What makes this place special and the food exclusive is definitely the quality and taste. We never store our masalas in large quantities as we believe that serving the biriyani with fresh ingredients is the key to its taste, says Vijayan. “Our cherished customers are also our sharpest critics. They ensure that we never slack,” he stresses.
The early days...
Cut back to 1939, when Govindan Panhikeyil, along with his son P M Valsan, started Paragon Baking Company, which became an instant hit and evolved into one of the most sought-after bakery destinations in the state. Slowly the institution expanded, adding more dishes to its menu. Unfortunately, the demise of Valsan saw operations grind to a halt. But his wife, Saraswathy, with her 13-year-old son in tow, took the bold decision to revive Paragon. And there was no looking back for Saraswathy and her son, Sumesh Govind, the current captain of the restaurant.
“It is definitely the 300-plus staff working in and outside the kitchen who have helped me achieve success,” says a proud Sumesh. “To top it off, the popularity of our biriyani has transcended borders. Its versatility, unique flavours, and cultural significance have made it a beloved dish that continues to win hearts worldwide. We travelled far and wide with our chefs some three decades ago to arrive at a recipe, which continues to be our mantra for success. We perfected it through trial and error, but never in our wildest dreams did we foresee the impact the dish has had,” he recounts.
“No matter the time of day, customers can enjoy our signature dish. The dum of the biriyani is opened around 11 AM and the serving process continues till the last dum is opened and served,” he adds. “Our emphasis is on taste, which comes from the meticulous selection of ingredients. All the ingredients are sourced from the city’s velliyangadi. We have always stayed away from fancy components,” Sumesh said.
During the festival season, Paragon makes more than 700kg of biriyani every day, especially in the days leading to Eid. The restaurant serves at least eight different varieties of biriyani, including Thalassery, Hyderabadi, kanthari, Malabar, spring chicken, butter chicken and prawns. The mutton and fish stew that’s served with hot, crispy appams are some of its other hits. Its popularity has helped Paragon grow into a venture with four sister concerns — Salkara, M Grill, Brown Town Bakery and Cafe, and Paragon Outdoor Catering Company.
“The restaurant business was never my cup of tea, until I realised how important it is to serve food with love and respect. On top of that, I am able to give employment to 300-plus staff in Kozhikode alone,” he said. Despite offers to expand the brand to other parts of the world, Sumesh never budged. For him it is important to do the little things well, rather than messing things up with big moves.