"What’s your perception of life?” The question catches me off guard as I step into the Sri Sankara Lodge of the Theosophical Society in Kochi, seeking answers about its functioning and relevance today.
Advocate M B Priyakumar, president of the Kochi Theosophical Society, insists that I return once I find an answer to his question.
“Without a collective understanding between us, our conversations about something universal would be hollow and one-sided,” he smiles.
Theosophy does not begin with doctrine or instruction. It begins with introspection.
Priyakumar’s response reflects the very essence of the Theosophical journey. One that is collective rather than individual, rooted in shared enquiry rather than fixed belief. It is a search for meaning that unfolds quietly, even amidst the relentless pace of modern life.
That quiet pursuit is mirrored in the physical presence of the Sri Sankara Lodge. A serene sanctuary in the middle of the city. A tile-roofed house just about 100m from the buzzing Pallimukku Junction.
A small, unassuming gate draws the eye. Inside, orchids and bougainvillaea mellow the space, while a modest signboard announces its presence.
Though easy to miss in the rush, the building stands as a preserved fragment of the city’s spiritual and intellectual history.
The beginning
The Sri Sankara Lodge, part of the global Theosophical movement, traces its ideological lineage from the mysticism of New York to Bombay, and eventually to Kochi.
The Theosophical Society was founded in New York in 1875 by Russian mystic Madame H P Blavatsky and American thinker Col Henry Steel Olcott. Their aim was to explore the underlying unity of religion, philosophy, and science, and to bridge the perceived divide between Eastern and Western thought.
The core idea was, and still remains, to seek “divine wisdom” and “spiritual ecstasy” through a collective exploration of “ancient philosophies and mystic insights”.
The movement found fertile ground in India in 1879, eventually shifting its headquarters to Adyar in Madras in 1882.
Annie Besant, who joined the Society in 1889, played a pivotal role in expanding its influence in India, weaving theosophical ideas into educational, spiritual, and political discourse.
Theosophy takes root in Kochi of yore
Referred to as a ‘lodge’ in a non-conventional sense, this old house emerged as a vital centre for discussions on philosophy, theology, and science. According to historical records maintained by the Society, the Theosophical movement began taking shape in Kerala as early as 1879, following a “crucial conversation between Palliyil Gopalan and Diwan Peshkar Shankaraya.”
“Palliyil Gopalan Menon would later become a major social catalyst in the early growth of Kochi city. With the support of the then Kochi king, he helped establish one of Ernakulam’s earliest libraries,” says T S Usman, a researcher and former secretary of the Society.
That space embodied the spirit of collective learning that defined the Theosophical Society. It was the beginning.
“The Kochi Theosophical Society was formally established in 1891. Initial meetings were held at the residence of Palliyil Gopalan, one of the Society’s founding members in Kochi,” Usman notes.
Land for the present building was acquired in 1918, and construction was completed towards the end of 1925.
“The Society’s presence was marked by regular programmes. One of its most impactful initiatives was the annual Navaratri celebration that combined social awareness talks, cultural performances, and member gatherings,” says Usman.
“Its success drew the attention of the Kochi royal family, which extended financial support for the further development of the lodge.”
Today, nearly 15 such lodges continue to function quietly across Kerala, catering to those who seek to understand the nature of life beyond material frameworks.
Encounters with history
The cultural relevance of the Theosophical Society in Kochi extends beyond spiritual enquiry. Two towering figures in Indian intellectual and political history such as Swami Vivekananda and Annie Besant have visited the Sri Sankara Lodge.
“Annie Besant addressed members and spoke about the significant role the Theosophical Society played in India’s socio-political scene back then,” says Usman.
Swami Vivekananda arrived in Kochi in early December 1892, travelling by boat from Kodungalloor on his journey to Kanyakumari.
It is believed that he learned about the Sri Sankara Lodge during an interaction with Dr Palpu in Bangalore. “He, too, visited the lodge and engaged in discussions with members of that time,” says Usman.
Notably, the Society used to conduct regular classes on how equality of human beings was a core concept in almost all religious philosophies.
“Over time, the Society fully changed its objective towards the spiritual enlightenment of all living beings,” says Usman.
M K Murali, the current secretary of the Society, says anyone with a genuine spiritual quest can join the centre.
“I was introduced to the Theosophical Society through a friend. Actually, I was never introduced to the Society directly — I came here for a music programme which happened in the building,” he recalls.
“Then I was intrigued by the books, pictures, and overall ambience of the place. I followed up on the Theosophical Society’s history and ideology. That drew me in, and I became a member.”
Murali stresses that the Society is not a cult, and does not “market or push any kind of agenda” to add members.
“It’s for people curious about life. Searchers shall seek it out. Anyone with genuine interest is welcome to join us.”
Well, indeed, the Sri Sankara Lodge does not seek attention or followers. It simply offers a space — quiet and reflective — where the first question is never about belief, but about life itself.
A quiet flux of enquiry
Even today, the Sri Sankara Lodge continues its rhythm of reflective engagement:
Every Wednesday, classes are held on philosopher and writer Jiddu Krishnamurti, a theosophical luminary.
Every Saturday, discussions focus on theosophy. Sessions are currently centred on Madame Blavatsky’s works.
Once a month, a lecture on theosophy or general philosophy is delivered by an external speaker or visiting member.
Attendance remains modest. The doors, however, remain open to all.