KOCHI: Potato has a ubiquitous presence in Indian cuisines. Urulakizhangu, aloo, batata, aaloo, alu gedde – the tuber dons many names here; and make forms. From masala dosas, aloo paratha, to yoghurt-based Kashmiri dum aloo, the spud’s possibilities are endless!
Before delving into how potatoes became a pantry staple in every Indian household, let’s take a look at how this nutritional giant became a successful global food. Ancient Peruvians were the first to cultivate the potato 8,000 years ago in South American Andes. They were the finest food source for the Incan working class as essential fats, carbohydrates, proteins, minerals, and vitamins, boosting the people to farm their terraced fields and mine the rocky mountains, thereby leading to the creation of the great Incan Empire.
The Spanish sailors who returned from the Andes are said to have brought potatoes to Europe first. But it took years to catch the attention of Europe as they weren’t ready to consume something dull from a strange land. So they used potatoes as decorative plants instead. Later the demand caught Europe, but it was predominantly eaten by the lower class. The ample availability of this inexpensive and nutritious tuber ensured a well-fed population in Europe, sparing the working class from much hardship during occasional famines.
Also, during wartime, the humble spud protected the food supply of the villagers in the European plains. As per research, since potatoes grow underground, they were well hidden from the tax collectors then, as very rarely did they dig up land to look for it.
In the 1500s, the Irish are reported to have adopted the potato. It was also a time when their population soared from 1 million to 8 million. This further increased their dependence on the tuber as a major food source. But little did the Irish know that a crop failure could change their country’s demographic forever. From 1845 to 1852, a majority of the crop was destroyed in a late blight, resulting in the Irish Potato Famine, which killed thousands and caused starvation on a large scale.
From the British Isles, potatoes travelled to Germany, Poland, Prussia and to Russia. Now the world’s leading potato producers are China, India, Russia, and Ukraine. In India, the potato’s entry was marked by the arrival of Portuguese and Dutch traders. But the tuber did not spread much. Instead, it remained along the Malabar coastline.
However, in the 18th century, as part of the British East India Company’s civilising mission, potatoes were grown, replacing the local vegetable varieties. By the 19th century, potatoes were grown across Bengal and parts of North India. Thus, the crop, which takes on the flavours of whatever is added, became a staple in various dishes. Even the rich Awadhi biryani underwent a transition when Nawab Wajid Ali Shah was exiled to Calcutta.
There, his chefs introduced potatoes to make up for the inadequate meat, thus bringing the famous Kolkata-style biryanis. Spicy Kerala potato roast, Bengal’s aloo posto, Manipuri eromba (mashed potatoes with dried fish and bamboo shoot chutney), and Batatyachi bhaji of Maharashtra, … the list of all that the humble tuber makes great is long. The spuds of the Peruvian hills have indeed conquered the hearts of Indians.
Mash and Gravy with Mushroom Gravy
Ingredients for mashed potatoes:
■ Potatoes: 4 nos
■ Butter: 3 tablespoon
■ Nutmeg: To taste
■ Salt: To taste
■ Cooking cream or milk: 15 ml
Ingredients for mushroom gravy
■ Mushrooms: 5 nos
■ Butter: 2 tablespoon
■ Onion: 15-20gm
■ Garlic: 5g
■ Thyme: 2g
■ Vegetable stock: 2 cups
■ Cooking cream: 10 ml
■ Red wine: Optional
Method of preparation
Add potatoes to boiling water and add salt. Once the potatoes are well cooked, strain the water and keep it aside. Mash the potatoes using a potato masher. Add cooking cream, butter, salt to taste, nutmeg and finish.
Method for Mushroom gravy
Heat the pan, melt butter and add thyme, chopped garlic, onion, sliced mushrooms & bayleaf. Saute it well. Add vegetable stock to the mix. Finish by adding cooking cream.
Courtesy: Cafe 17, Ravipuram
Bombay potatoes
Ingredients
■ Baby potatoes: 1 lb (yukon gold or red)
■ Olive oil: 3 tablespoons
■ Cumin seeds: 1 teaspoon
■ Water: 2 tablespoons
■ Coriander powder: 1 teaspoon
■ Ground cumin: To taste
■ Turmeric: To taste
■ Red chilli powder: 1 teaspoon
■ Garam masala: To taste
■ Dry mango powder: 1 teaspoon
■ Chat masala: 1 teaspoon
■ Salt: To taste
■ Lime Juice: Half slice
■ Coriander leaves: 2 tablespoons
Method of preparation
In a small bowl, add all the dry spices. Mix everything together and keep it aside.
Next, cook the baby potatoes in an instant pot on high pressure for 5 minutes.
In a pan, pour oil. Once hot, add cumin seeds and let them splutter. Then add the boiled potatoes and saute for 3-4 minutes till they start browning and crispy.
Add the prepared spice mixture, 1-2 tablespoons of water. Mix everything well until the potatoes are evenly coated with spices.
Adding water prevents the spices from burning in the pot. Stir for a minute till the water evaporates; turn off the saute.
Potato & Leeks Soup (‘Potage Parmentier’)
Ingredients:
Method of preparation
Saute Leeks, onion, thyme & Bay leaf in butter. Add Vegetable stock and bring it to a boil. Add potatoes and boil. Remove Bayleaf and thyme from the mixture and blend it in a blender. Bring this mixture to a boil and finish it with cooking cream and sliced leeks.
Know Your Tuber