The atmosphere at the lone gurudwara in Kochi is festive. The air resonates with kirtan, accompanied by the rhythmic beats of the tabla and the gentle hum of the harmonium.
At the centre, the Guru Granth Sahib — the holy text of Sikhs — rests under a colourful canopy, adorned with floral garlands. Hundreds trickle in, silently in reverence to the hymns, to bow before the Book.
Once the kirtan concludes, the traditional langar is served downstairs. The meal is prepared by the families who gather the previous night at the gurudwara to arrange ingredients.
Men and women sit together, cutting vegetables and kneading dough for rotis. They cook a simple but hearty feast to celebrate Guru Nanak Jayanti (November 5) at the Gurdwara Singh Sabha in Thevara.
On such a day, filled with excitement and devotion, nothing tastes better than a morsel of this humble food. “We welcome all, irrespective of religion, caste, colour, or class. That’s ingrained in Sikhism,” says Kochi-born Baljeet Singh, speaking in fluent Malayalam.
Guru Nanak Jayanti is one of the most significant festivals for the Sikh community — the birth anniversary of the mystic who founded Sikhism.
“He was our first Guru, and then followed nine more, who all left their teachings in the Guru Granth Sahib. We worship the Book in the gurdwara and always keep their teachings in mind,” explains Jagjeet Singh, the general secretary of the gurdwara.
Besides around 30 Sikh families that have permanently made Kochi their home, community members from the Navy and IT sector also gather at the gurdwara. Several north Indian and Malayali families, too, join the celebration.
The kirtan and feast are preceded by 48 hours of continuous recitation of the Guru Granth Sahib. Family members who can read the Gurmukhi script take turns to read from the holy text, which contains 5,894 shabads (compositions) across 1,420 angs (pages).
A few days ahead of Guru Nanak Jayanti, the community members in traditional attire take out a procession in the city to spread the message of Sikhism, says Bunty Singh, who is settled in Kochi. “We held Narar Kirtan on Sunday,” he adds.
Notably, Bunty’s parents were among the first Sikh families to settle in Kochi. “It was back in 1967 that my father, Harban Singh Sethi, came to Kochi with my mother, Satwant Kaur. He started a business here — Bombay Automobiles,” beams Bunty, adding that he and his brother, Surinder Singh, run the establishment together now.
The Sethis are well-known for their Punjabi restaurants in the city as well. Bunty’s two brothers operate Sethi Da Dhaba, while his cousin, Daman Preet Singh, manages Sardarji Ka Dhaba.
“However, when our families first arrived, Punjabi food was a rarity here,” says Surinder. “Of course, it was a totally alien culture. I have heard my parents say how people would stare at my father’s turban. But they gelled well with the local community. Now, for us, Kochi is our home — our mitti.”
Notably, the city was home to a gurdwara long before Sikh families started settling here. “The first gurdwara in Kochi — primarily for Navy personnel — was built near today’s Cochin Shipyard in 1955,” says Jagjeet, who always carries a kirpan (sword) as part of his traditional attire.
“When the land was acquired to expand the shipyard, the gurdwara was shifted here (Perumanoor). This one was constructed in 1975. Usually, a gurdwara has four gates, open on all sides to signify that everyone is welcome. But due to land crunch, this gurudwara has only one gate.” But the spirit of inclusiveness is not curbed. It is evident every Sunday and on festival days. There are no staff members here. Families come together to clean the site, cook the langar, and serve it to visitors.
“We do everything ourselves,” says Daman. “The gurdwara also runs a free homoeopathy clinic daily till the afternoon, and an eye clinic every second and fourth Wednesday.”
The sense of companionship is visible everywhere — in the flowing camaraderie, the fluent Malayalam, and the freewheeling langar that transcends all barriers.
“Langar literally means community kitchen,” says Baljeet. “During the 2018 floods and the Covid lockdowns, we prepared langar for many in the city.”
As I prepare to leave, hundreds queue up to receive the karah parshad or deg — a halwa made of ghee, flour, and sugar. “All are welcome to join us. All you need to do is come to Thevara, ask any autorickshaw driver where the Sikh ambalam is, and they will guide you here,” smiles Baljeet.