Standing tall and swaying their heads weighed down by plump rice grains in the knee-deep waters of Ezhikkara is a special variety of paddy. One that thrives in salinity: the pokkali.
Though the ancient crop is losing its old glory elsewhere in Kerala, it is getting a booster-shot in its slow rise to revival in Ernakulam district.
Taking note of the vast potential that pokkali fields hold for rural tourism, the District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC), in association with Palliyakkal Service Co-operative Bank Ltd, has launched a project that not only aims to revive this indigenous rice variety but also boost the income of local farmers.
Indeed, the green expanse of pokkali fields in North Paravur is a visual treat. But it’s endangered.
“Over the years, due to reasons like the declining availability of seeds, lack of labourers, machinery to process the paddy, and high labour charges, farmers have become uninterested in taking up the cultivation,” says Sanil V V, secretary of the bank.
According to him, around 4,500 hectares of land in Ernakulam district were once under pokkali cultivation. “But now, cultivation happens only in around 400 hectares. Of these, a significant area of cultivation is taking place in Ezhikkara,” Sanil adds.
Joseph, a farmer here, says around 110 hectares of pokkali fields are being cultivated in Ezhikkara. “There are 140 farmers here. But it should be understood that over the years, the number of farmers actively engaged in pokkali cultivation has declined, with around 10 to 20 per cent actually cultivating it,” he adds.
“Most of the others are engaged in sham cultivation, all for the sake of getting a licence to do prawn farming. Only if a farmer cultivates paddy would he get the licence for prawn farming.”
Another issue is linked to climate change. “Pokkali is usually cultivated from June to early November when the salinity level of the water in the fields is low. From mid-November to mid-April, when the salinity is high, prawn farming is done,” explains Joseph.
“But now, with rains coming intermittently, the paddy is not getting time to grow, ripen, and form grain of high quality. Pokkali takes 128 days to be ready for harvest, and if not harvested within 10 days, it will decay. Also, higher precipitation leads to the dropping of the rice heads. All this, combined with attacks from pests, means the farmers end up with a raw deal.”
Sanil points out that some pokkali farmers incur a loss of up to `30,000 per hectare. “However, the bank props them up by procuring the rice at Rs 52 per kg and providing them with loans, seeds, labourers, and machinery like the mill to process the paddy,” he says.
“We have set up a rice mill at a cost of Rs 5 crore. We are also marketing the rice and its value-added products — such as pachchari, puttupodi, aval, and appam podi — under the brand name Kaithakam.”
Tourism boost
Now, the DTPC has also stepped in to support pokkali farmers by involving them in an experiential tourism project. About 110 agrarian families of Ezhikkara will be part of the initiative, says DTPC secretary Lijo Jose.
“An experiential tourism centre will be developed at Ezhikkara. The project will see visitors getting to experience the beauty of the pokkali fields and the cuisine of the local residents, which mainly comprises pokkali rice, fish, and locally grown vegetables,” he explains.
“As part of the project, training has been given to women and farmers. We had engaged trainers from a hotel management institute to train those participating in hospitality.”
Noufida Nisam, a farmer, is excited about the venture. “About 50 dishes made using local ingredients will be prepared for the tourists arriving here. Activities like walking, getting introduced to farm machinery, a session on pokkali cultivation, cycling, kayaking, and hands-on experience in harvesting pokkali rice are on the list,” she gushes.
“Harvesting pokkali rice is very difficult. The knee-deep water in the field makes it impossible for the machines to enter. Hence, the labourers have to wade in and cut the paddy by hand. For tourists to experience this, a paddy field has been set aside. They will also get to enjoy boating in traditional boats.”
Well, that sounds like a plan.
The grainy detail
Total pokkali area in the district: 400 hectares
Pokkali cultivation in Ezhikkara: 110 hectares
Pokkali cultivation: June to early November
Prawn farming: Mid-November to mid-April
What is Pokkali?
Pokkali is one of the oldest indigenous rice varieties, with over 3,000 years of organic cultivation and climate resilience history. The journey of pokkali rice began from a flood. Originally a wild rice found in the Western Ghats, it was carried by floods to low-lying coastal saline areas.
Over time, it adapted to harsh conditions and developed resistance to both flooding and salinity.
Pokkali is cultivated in the waterlogged, coastal regions of Ernakulam, Thrissur, and Alappuzha districts. The rice, known for high nutritional value, derives its name from the crops’ height (pokkam) — it can grow up to six feet tall. Notably, Pokkali rice was the first produce from Kerala to receive the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2008 - 2009.
