There was a time Indian designers made sporadic international appearances through celebrities—remember the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker donning a giant floral maangtika and a custom Falguni and Shane Peacock lehenga in the Sex and the City reboot or Princess of Wales Kate Middleton wearing a Jaipur-inspired Anita Dongre dress during her India trip? In recent times, Jennifer Lopez showed up in an elaborate Manish Malhotra gown on her birthday while Shakira opted for Anamika Khanna for her live show and Adele glowed in a custom Gaurav Gupta. Indian designers ruled the Grammys 2024 with their designs. Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are looking at London and New York City to establish their couture. Rahul Mishra is launching his flagship in Paris, and his eyes are set next on London, Dubai, and Singapore, alongside exclusive luxury pop-ups in key fashion capitals.
As designer Arpita Mehta says, “India is incredibly rich in culture, with a wealth of heritage, textiles, crafts, and a booming fashion industry. It’s natural for people to be drawn to this.” It’s no longer just about aesthetics but about self-expression and identity. According to German data gathering and visualisation platform Statista, revenue in the luxury fashion market is projected to reach $83.39 million in 2025 and is expected to show an annual growth rate (CAGR 2025-2029) of 10.21 per cent, resulting in a projected market volume of $123.02 million by 2029.
In fact, one could call this the ‘golden age of Indian fashion’. The fact that most leading Indian designers are marking their decades in the industry this year tells that the industry has matured along with their journeys—Rohit Bal completed his celestial run, leaving behind a tall legacy, Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, credited with reviving the art of chikankari, mark their 40 years of fashion in the industry soon, siblings Nikhil and Shantnu Mehra will be celebrating their big 25 this year and Sabyasachi’s 25 was no less than iconic.
Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre’s exhibition titled India in Fashion: The Impact of Indian Dress and Textiles on the Fashionable Imagination that put on display India’s influence on fashion and style from the 18th century to present day, Dior’s pre-fall 2023 collection showcase at the Gateway of India with as many as 850 Indian and international celebrities, Princess Diya Kumari Foundation’s fundraiser in Jaipur with Ralph Lauren and Vivienne Westwood’s collection showcase in Mumbai are some of the recent fitting testimonies that prove India has become a global fashion market.
This, in turn, has created a unique opportunity for emerging designers and homegrown brands. Ujjawal Dubey, founder and creative head, Antar-Agni says that the fashion landscape has evolved, but the journey is never without its challenges. “Funding and investments are a very new aspect for Indian fashion and it is a great move which will lead to the industry being more organised,” he says, signalling major investments of businesses in Indian fashion houses in recent times.
Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) chairman Sunil Sethi says that FDCI too is doing its bit to ensure Indian designers have a global reach. “Dhruv Kapoor is showing internationally; we also recently sent Nitin Bal Chauhan to Moscow Fashion Week. JJ Valaya called me up the other day from Colombo Fashion Week. I am not sure if the international market is ready for so many Indian designers. It also takes a lot of time, money, effort and research to make a dent in the international market.” He shares that FDCI also worked with BRICS + Fashion Summit last year and has helmed an agreement with Moscow Fashion Week.
Evolving landscape
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla recall how there were no design schools, fashion journalism, PR or social media in the initial days. “Your clothes had to do the selling. Today it’s a massive industry with all the amenities,” they say. For the designers, it was a dream to reinvent chikan and make it into couture and it took two years of research and development before they made their first collection.
Likewise, Gaurav Gupta found limited opportunity to break into the international market when he started out. “Indian designers now have a far more global reach, with celebrities, stylists, and fashion aficionados worldwide recognising our craft,” he says. Rahul Khanna of Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna adds that consumers are also more conscious—they’re not just buying clothes, they’re buying into stories, values, and craftsmanship, thus creating a market for sustainable fashion.
Rahul Mishra’s Fall Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection explored the depths and mysteries of the idea of aura. “This resonance with deeper human experiences makes such themes universally appealing,” he says, talking about why his 2024 collections became a hit at the Paris Fashion Week. Mythology and spirituality are the newest runway companions. Rahul Khanna of Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, who recently designed a collection called ‘Cosmic Love’, says that we’re living in an era where people are seeking connection beyond the material—whether it’s through nature, the cosmos, or personal introspection and that their collection stemmed from that desire to explore the intangible.
When Navkirat Sodhi walked the Paris Fashion Week runway in a divine white attire for Gaurav Gupta, it was a reminder of the ghastly fires engulfing lands and life in a prominent corner of the world. Gupta who designed the ‘Across the Fire’ collection, says artists create what they feel and this was a deeply personal and emotional experience. “There’s a deep sense of pride in our roots, and designers are drawing inspiration from mythology, philosophy, and spiritual iconography.”
Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s much-anticipated 25th anniversary collection declared the designer was on a mission to make his brand and approach global. Manish Malhotra’s recent Dubai showcase aptly titled ‘World Collection: Dubai’ too announced how the designer had his eyes set on the global market. He ditched Indian ethnic for modern, contemporary designs that would cater to a larger audience. Three years ago, an entire row was empty at Dhruv Kapoor’s Milan debut. After his recent showcase at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, scores of international buyers crowded backstage to meet him. This has also translated to luxury brands eyeing the India market. From Alia Bhatt endorsing Gucci to Ananya Pandey for Swarovski, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja endorsing Dior and royal siblings Gauravi Kumari and Sawai Padmanabh Singh endorsing Jimmy Choo and US Polo Assn, respectively, the influence of Indian celebrities is being leveraged by international brands.
Is men’s fashion in India having a renaissance?
In 2008, when FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi assumed charge, he realised the need for a separate men’s fashion week. “We organised the first ever India Men’s Week with Van Heusen in 2009,” he says. Recently, they wrapped up FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025. “Men’s apparel has always been an important part in the retail industry.” He adds that as more and more people gravitate towards fitness and grooming, especially the youngsters, clothing becomes an essential part of their lifestyle. “Earlier, a groom would only wear a blue or black suit for the wedding but now, men are accompanying their partners to the designer stores to select bridal outfits,” he says.
A former study by Istituto Marangoni had revealed that the Indian menswear market is bigger than womenswear. According to market research firm IMARC Group, the Indian menswear market size reached $20.4 billion in 2024 and is expected to reach $38.8 billion by 2033, exhibiting a growth rate (CAGR) of 7.4 per cent during 2025-2033, thus signalling massive growth in the sector.
With statistics favouring the Indian luxury clothing market, the Indian fashion renaissance seems to have just started.