Chef Rose, the angel of Hammersmith

Chef Rose, the angel of Hammersmith
Updated on
3 min read

Often people ask questions about life and work, especially about the one who inspires drive and fascination. I was asked this repeatedly  by customers and friends alike. In  the past, just like any other teenager, successful people fascinated me. As the train of life approached food junction,  I got off and walked a long way. In the glory of that self chosen path, I met some remarkable individuals who helped my quest for finding the power of food. Chef Rose was the woman I found most powerful and interesting from the world of restaurants.


Rose Gray passed away in 2010 after a long fight with cancer. Rosy, as we fondly called her, was the smile of hope and a mighty presence in this tough market of kitchens. With her departure, the catering industry lost an icon and a true chef of the world. Personally, I  lost my English mother who brought some very valuable insight about this business.

Rose was the co founder of River Cafe on the north bank of Thames near Hammersmith in London. Rosy's imagination of traditional Italian food from her experience in Tuscany, interest in art and gardening made this modern restaurant very special. Her excitement in creating simple and fresh Italian food from source replaced the popular pizza and pasta culture with grilled meat, mushroom risotto, soups, breads etc.

On my way back from a routine visit to our restaurant in Newcastle, unlike other times, thoughts were steaming up just the way heatwaves hit the tranquil landscapes and green meadows. In the last conversation I had at the restaurant with a customer touched my feelings on love, mother and cooking. When I left the table and ran up the steep road towards the station to catch the flying Scotsman to take me home, I could feel cold drops of tears trickling down my cheeks along with the memory of two mothers and similarity of their contributions in my life.

Food was common as passion and silently they made the most powerful impact in my journey of life. Rosy was a big fan of our cooking, she used to travel all the way to Rasa from west London almost every Friday after work, this was no joke at the time to drive an hour for an Indian meal. A tall and cheerful lady, she was so modest about her fame and equanimity.

Among the many tips she gave me, significant one was to write cook books, her point was writing recipes was more exciting and fulfilling. Rosy advised me not to expand rapidly and suggested opening a bigger restaurant instead of running all over the place. We had a memorable meal together at Rasa W1 to celebrate her 60th birthday with her family. On another special occasion, she invited me for a dinner at hers, a boy called Jamie was asked to cook something nice for me since I was a vegetarian.

Years later the same Jamie walked in to my restaurant on Charlotte Street and introduced himself by reminding about that dish he prepared at River Cafe, by then he had already become the popular TV Chef Jamie Oliver!
 We worked together for her charity to promote kids' awareness on food and cooking culture. Rosy looked tired when we met the last time but her angel-like smile lit her face and the whole restaurant that day. As she hugged me and said goodbye, I never knew that was the last time I would see this legend. Still in the train and sunk in emotions, the rush hour crowd went in and out of the coach, leaving me alone for some time.

Watching the bright blue sky slowly mellowing into a pleasant evening and I could experience the flowing white shades along the far away horizon touching and vibrating the romantic journey of sunset. I saw the smiles of two mothers looking down on me, I recalled everything all over again in our relationship. Rosy's energy was impeccable and her love for food unusual, she was never afraid of destiny, so was her attitude towards death which snatched her mercilessly on that dark February day. Rose Gray was a true champion of the food business and a real leader for women who dream big in this difficult world.

(The author is a London-based restaurateur who owns the Rasa chain)

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