In urban mythology (if one may allow such a contradictory term to exist) Shangri-La is the metaphoric ‘Garden of Eden’ minus all the calamities brought on by the original sin. It was the mystical kingdom of heaven. It was inhabited by immortals and it was the veritable land of plenty and fortitude.
Mumbaikars will be nodding along in agreement for even as you read this, the plastic is yet to be removed from the furniture at the spanking new Shangri-La hotel in India’s financial capital. I happened to visit the hotel and it shines brighter than the brightest of lights in good ol’ tinsel town. It is after all, a new hotel in the city after a long time and definitely the hot topic on the circuit. Delhi on the other hand is being spoilt rotten with the choicest of hospitality options opening doors almost every second month. For now, this new baby has everyone curious.
As a chain, the Shangs, as it is often affably (and coolly) referred to, does have some characteristic features: the grand staircase, the exquisite lobby lounge (which, according to their philosophy, is a guest’s first interaction with the hotel) and the slightly recessed reception area for check-ins. But I wasn’t checking in this time. I was there to gorge myself at their super spread of an all-day diner called Seven. Again, Shangri-La belongs to the adaptive school of thought and the name incorporates the Devnagiri scripture ‘7’ in its typeface. The exclusive wine bar is built like a stately lounge, the wines are almost hidden, peeking gently from behind shelves. A small wine dispensing machine will soon enable people to enjoy a sip of their choice in a quantity of their liking, all very discreet yet efficient.
But back to the reason I was there—food! Seven takes its name from the seven islands that originally formed the city of Bombay. To showcase this, there are seven distinct islands of food—from one dedicated to comfort food (think burgers and shasliks) to separate ones for vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebabs and grills, and then there are salads with an impressive stone-carved tossing bowl, Oriental mains, a Sushi counter, and the piece de resistance—the dessert spread with a, wait for the drum roll, cotton-candy machine!
For me here are five problems with a buffet:
1. The food quality is at best, average. 2. The dishes don’t fare well being kept on the counters for long and lose their suppleness. 3. The range is too little and I feel cheated. 4. The range is too large and I feel overwhelmed, and greedy. 5. Pairing wine with food is totally out of the window.
The Shangs managed to overcome the first four problems—small portions on display, plenty of cooking à la minute so nothing was stale, and dividing the buffet into seven pieces was a good way to retain a balance between hunger and satiety. As for the last, they had a lovely sommelier on the floor, Thomas, who helped us with a lovely choice of a wine. When the food is varied the rule of thumb says to either pick a rich creamy white or else a lively fruity red. We went with the latter and the New Zealand Pinot Noir turned out to be a good choice for the evening.
The food was exceptionally prepared but I will revisit any place a minimum of three times before I pass a final verdict. I will also discount for the fact that people who write about food and wine may be handled with extra care. Either ways, Shangs is a renowned hotel chain and anyone who has visited their properties in Singapore and Hong Kong will vouch for their high level of professionalism.
I came away fairly impressed and am inclined to make one of those sweeping statements, “Shangrila will herald the ascension of Mumbai to a new level of food and beverage.” It may take time, building a legacy in the city what with other stalwarts already present and established, but it can surely carve itself a neat little niche over time.
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