CHENNAI: Chef Srinivas of Golden Dragon at Taj Coromandel familiarised us with the Chinese restaurant not with a formal introduction, but with the details that trace the history of the dish, gua bao. He says, “The classic gua bao originates from the southwestern part of China. The dish was however popularised in Taiwan where it is called lotus bread because when you open the bun it looks like a lotus leaf. The custom of people in Quanzhou is to celebrate the marriage of their daughter by eating lots of stuffed buns with the meat of their choice, usually pork belly and other ingredients.
There are eight varieties of bao. The bun is the soft element and the meat will be crispy and crunchy. The bun, meat, lettuce, butter, garlic and chilli sauces are eaten all at once.” Decorated with yellow and red lights, the restaurant wears a festive look. The music in the background infuses a calming vibe inviting us to delve into the world of gua baos.
The chef elaborates, “China operates on the Lunar Year; this is the year of the rabbit. As the year ends, business houses celebrate by eating gua bao. This half-moon bun looks like a ladies’ purse and it represents a purse full of fortune, money, prosperity and love. This April, as we have stepped into the financial new year, we thought of celebrating it with different gua baos.”
Into the bao world
We are greeted with a bowl of kimchi and beetroot pickle before the arrival of the main dish. The mustard, ginger and spicy sauces are presented to us to alter the gua bao’s taste based on our requirements. The first variety, crispy prawns gua bao was served piping hot, in round wooden boxes. The aroma entices our senses, pushing us to sample it. Pillowy soft and fluffy, the texture of bao has us on our knees already. Gua bao is paired with a flavourful dip sauce that adds another layer of flavour to the lettuce, pickled capsicum and edible flowers. The fried prawns are packed with a surprise of crunchiness and subtle spice. The hotel offers four non-vegetarian and four vegetarian options of gua bao. Requesting the chef’s recommendation, we opt for dishes from each category.
Talking about the vegetarian gua baos, the chef points out, “Even though the dish is known for its meat mix, we have also introduced other options as vegetarians should not be deprived of the experience.” With sautéed shiitake mushrooms, lettuce, mala mayo, cucumber slices and garlic crisps, the dish boasts an earthy flavour. Taking into consideration the summer heat, the chef and his team have also curated a list of cocktails and mocktails. The yuzu sour, a mix of bourbon whiskey, campari, yuzu, lime, and egg-white balances the slightly spicy flavour of the gua baos. Even though we had our initial doubts about adding egg-white to our drinks, we coud barely tell its presence in it.
The next dish on the menu is the chicken gua bao with seasoned fried chicken. Marinated in a blend of spices and herbs, this dish is low on the spice metre but the pickled cucumber slices elevate the tanginess. The mala mayo when cut through the vegetables and the chicken is a refreshing addition. Explaining the curation of the menu, the executive chef Sujan Mukherjee chips in, “The summer season is also taken into consideration. People might want to eat things that are light and healthy. We have selected flavours and ingredients accordingly.” Chef Srinivas adds, “To maintain the authenticity, we source the ingredients from different places around the world.
For example, pork is imported from Belgium. We also have chef Liam from Nanjing who helps us with the preparation. Everything from the bao is made from scratch by the team. We don’t alter the flavours to change it into a way that fits our country’s taste. However, we do make changes if the customers specifically request us. Some meats are common to Taiwan and India, so we have included that. We avoided meat like ox tongues for they might not be accepted locally.”
Knowing our love for meat, the chef presents the Mongolian lamb bao. The tender lamb slices are cooked with a melt-in-your-mouth texture which enhances the experience of a main course wholesomeness. The marinade ensures a bold kick of spice to the dish and the addition of crushed peanuts along with green chilli, sweet bean mayo and lettuce complements it. The sweet bun and the savoury lamb combo instantly becomes our favourite.
The last dish on the plate is a slice of Belgium Belgian pork char siu stuffed with thinly cut pork fat, steamed bok choy, pickled turnip, caramelised onions and crunchy scallions. The tender pork marinated in a blend of spices, soy sauce and honey feels a bit too chewy. But the vegetables come to the rescue with their vibrant burst of colour to the dish, making it visually appealing and appetising. Content, we await the sweet moment of truth a chocolate dim sum.
Chef Srinivas is confident that the food is a symbol of celebration. Through his culinary skills, we decided to join in their celebration of comfort and culture.
Gua bao origins
The classic gua bao originates from the southwestern part of China. The dish was however popularised by Taiwan where it is called lotus bread because when you open the bun it looks like a lotus leaf. The custom of people in Quanzhou is to celebrate the marriage of their daughter by eating lots of stuffed buns with meat of their choice.