Leave it to the Chef

Omakase offers something most restaurants don’t—direct interaction with the chef, smaller seating, and a sense of exclusivity
Chef Hussain Shahzad
Chef Hussain Shahzad
Updated on
3 min read

As Trevor Corson writes in The Story of Sushi, the word, omakase, itself means, “I’ll leave it up to you.” In practice, it feels like a delicious leap of faith—one where the reward is often far greater than the risk.

“Walking into an omakase is like handing the chef the keys to your taste buds. No menus, no choices, no second guessing. A good omakase is part art, part intuition, today’s shimmering uni, yesterday’s perfectly aged toro, all unfolding like edible theatre. Unscripted. Unforgettable”, says Vikram Khatri, Chef Consultant.

At its core, omakase is driven by immediacy: what’s freshest today, and how the chef chooses to interpret it. A slice of fish arrives cool and glistening, brushed lightly with soy; rice still warm, holding just enough air. There’s no excess, no distraction. Each course is calibrated for balance—fat against acid, smoke against sweetness, texture against temperature. You don’t just eat; you pay attention.

Yellowtail Carpaccio from Megu
Yellowtail Carpaccio from Megu
At its core, omakase is driven by immediacy: what’s freshest today, and how the chef chooses to interpret it... across India, that attention to detail is finding its own rhythm

Across India, that attention to detail is finding its own rhythm. In Mumbai, Koishii pushes the format into brighter territory, where Japanese precision meets Peruvian lift. The flavours come alive on the palate—citrus cutting through richness, spice lingering just long enough to surprise. It’s sharp, confident cooking that doesn’t sit still.

Delhi’s Adrift Kaya at JW Marriott Aerocity leans into the energy of an izakaya, where smoky, bold notes meet a flowing sequence of omakase courses curated by David Myers. Here, the experience is layered—bite, sip, pause—before the next plate resets the rhythm. At Megu, inside The Leela Palace, the mood softens. Courses arrive like measured gestures—delicate seafood, thoughtfully handled meats, and even vegetarian plates that carry depth without excess.

Walking into an omakase is like handing the chef the keys to your taste buds. No menus, no choices, no second guessing. A good omakase is part art, part intuition.”
Vikram Khatri, Chef Consultant

Omakase doesn’t end with food—it extends into the glass. Craft sake, once misunderstood, now mirrors the nuance of the plate. Bright, zesty pours cut through fatty fish; fuller-bodied styles echo the depth of grilled courses. As sommelier Prateek Arora explains, “Sake’s umami compatibility with sushi is no accident, but wisdom refined over centuries.” What was once served warm and overlooked now holds its own, sometimes even leading the experience.

In Pune, Ukiyo strips things back even further. The cooking is restrained, almost meditative. A piece of sushi might look simple, but every element—cut, temperature, seasoning—feels exact. It’s food that asks you to slow down, to notice. And then there’s Wasabi by Morimoto at the Taj Mahal Palace, where familiarity meets mastery. The black cod miso arrives lacquered and tender, its richness balanced just enough to keep you coming back for another bite. It’s the kind of dish that anchors memory long after the meal is over.

Biryani at Papa’s
Biryani at Papa’s
"Intimate dining is becoming increasingly about a space for storytelling, for presence, and for moments that stay long after the meal ends."
Chef Hussain Shahzad

Elsewhere in Delhi, The Director’s Cut reimagines the idea entirely—omakase, but for cocktails. Drinks are built around your palate, sometimes veering into the unexpected. Like ketchup in a cocktail shouldn’t work, and yet, here, it does. Globally, the format is expanding beyond sushi. In Singapore, Ami Patisserie turns dessert into a quiet performance. At the centre is Makoto Arami, who crafts a six-course progression where butter, sugar, and Japanese produce come together in precise, almost poetic compositions. His boozy Marble Dark Chocolate, inspired by a handmade plate from a close friend, closes the meal on a deeply personal note. That intimacy is shaping how chefs think about dining itself.

In Mumbai, that idea plays out at Papa’s—a 12-seater counter that feels like being invited into someone’s home. Chef Hussain Shahzad puts it simply, intimate dining is becoming increasingly about a space for storytelling, for presence, and for moments that stay long after the meal ends.

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The New Indian Express
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