With its massive temples, meandering Cauvery, mesmerising Devaram hymns and beautiful pattu saris, Veppathur (Kumbakonam district) has all the
ingredients of a colourful village.
A mere hint of a visit to Kumbakonam turns my family and friends hysterical. Everyone suggests temple after temple that I must visit.
Therefore, despite a hectic schedule, I land at Veppatthur (I have managed to sandwich a short vacation between work sessions).
The kutcha road to the resort is flanked by vast, green farmlands. I hear chirping of birds. The name Mantra, of the resort, calms me. The cottages that come into view have reddish thinnai and mavukolams, and resemble an agraharam. I am won over and I decide to extend my stay longer by a day, wander around barefoot and try my hand at a bullock cart.
After a few unsuccessful attempts at pottery (which result in the wildest shapes) at the Crafts Centre and pot-breaking with the uriyattam pole, I call it a day and retire to the comfort of my fluffy bed and doze off instantly.
I am woken up by a raucous court of birds at pre-dawn — attention, birdwatchers, there are about 65 species which include migratory ones like, orioles, herons, green-bee-eaters, cormorants. After a steaming cup of tea, I take a stroll along the river behind the Mantra — the majestic Veerachola is a tributary of the Cauvery.
The mud road leading to village Thaiyur is soaked in water. After an hour or so, I hear the gurgling of a stream. From here, Veerachola diverges from Cauvery, to flow through villages like Kalungu, Tirumanancheri (famous for sastiapthapoorthi customs — when a person turns 60) and Veppathur before submerging with Cauvery at Poompuhar. The river is weed green and the sky is crimson red.
As if trying to retrace my childhood, I amble around barefoot. A village
safari isn’t complete without a visit to Thirubuvanam, a heritage site. We head for this bustling hamlet, crossing a narrow bridge where children dive into the stream beneath. I am envious of them.
There is a legend that a Chola king once killed a Brahmin and was cursed with shivers, or kampa. Then the curse was lifted by Lord Chattainathar. To honour this god, in the 12th century, the great Chola monarch Kulotthunga III (who had the title “Thirubuvana”) built the Kampahareshvarar (literally, the “One who removes the shivers”) temple. It is, simply said, an architectural splendour.
Lord Chattainathar holds a unique pose, wielding a gadha in his left hand and wearing a snake as his waist band. The god looks benign.
The sculptures that adorn the massive towers are exquisite. There is one in particular that held my attention — a danseuse with a slender waist and heavy hips, and adorned with flowers, majestically bending one of her legs at the knee. Near the sanctum of Lord Dakshinamurthy is a rare sculpture with two animals, an elephant and a bull in a single figurine. The head of the elephant is so dexterously carved that it looks like a bull’s head too. The tusk becomes the horn while the eyes look alike.
Next is a panel of elephant fights. The sculptor has frozen a moving, emotionally charged scene — the king returns to his capital after a glorious battle with army elephants, drunk with the victory, the beasts roam the streets, chasing a lady with a child on her hip, before being finally tamed.
Lord Sarabeshwarar is consecrated to the north-east of the main central shrine. Lord Narashimha after killing Hiranya, became very ferocious and could not be calmed even by the devas. The devas turned to Siva for protection, who in turn assumed Saraba’s form to subdue Narashimha.
In short, it was an extravagant posse of sculptures displaying craftsmanship of the highest order, where the sculptor’s imagination exceeds a connoisseur’s comprehension.
Now, journey from the legacy of the past to the luminous present. Silk-weaving being the mainstay of Tirubuvanam, the Sannadhi Street is lined with a number of shops selling silk saris under the brand name “Tirubuvanam Pattu”. The sight is captivating, multi-hued silk and gold threads lined across the street with villagers preparing to weave them into sarees.
One group is working on a mind-boggling design called Vanasingaram. It depicts a forest in intricate detail — of leafy trees, birds and monkeys perched on trees, and wild animals roaming in leisure.
The weavers also design their saris inspired by the sculptural marvels of the temple; the bull and an elephant in a single figurine are a class apart.
A kooraipudavai is a specially coloured (arakku, meaning deep brown) and designed sari, with a diamond-patterned border, and is a “must buy” for a bride-to-be. Making a purchase or two — “no bargains please” — I return to the resort.
— srinivasa_raghavan@yahoo.co.in
Factfile
Place to Stay: Mantra resort Accommodation: 30-odd cottages, priced from ` 7,000 Resort activities: Uriyattam, pottery, bullock-cart ride, village safari, riverside walk.
How to reach : Kumbakonam (6 km) is the nearest town.
By Train: Rockfort Express from Chennai is the best option.
By Road: It takes nearly five to six hours from Chennai to reach Kumbakonam.
By Air: Tiruchi is the nearest airport.