Inundated with yellow mustard plants and blooming sunflowers and flanked by the Aravallis, Alwar is a rich repository of Rajput architecture and flamboyance. Rajasthan is synonymous with royalty, palaces, blood-studded valour. Located in a region formerly known as Matsya pradesh, Alwar was once ruled by the Suryavanshis and is beleaguered by the Bala Quila that stands perched as a silent sentinel of changing times.
We first stumbled upon the Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri, a heritage monument in Alwar that pays tribute to love, valour and sati, and is venerated by the locals. It was built by Maharaja Vinay Singh (1815-1857 CE) and dedicated to the ruler—Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh—and his wife Maharani Moosi who had committed sati.
Chhatris are often built on cremation sites of wealthy and distinguished individuals of the society in Rajasthan. They may either be a simple structure of just one dome raised by four pillars, or alternatively they could also be a mammoth monument with many domes and a basement with several rooms.
Interestingly, the Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri has been built as an elephant-shaped structure with a combination of domes that reflect the Islamic-influenced Bengali architecture in its construction.
There are interesting stories surrounding Moosi Maharani. While some books brand her as a concubine, others proclaim that the queen was a village girl by whom the king was mesmerised. Locals say that Moosi Rani was the only one who was able to give birth to a male heir to continue Maharaja Bhaktawar Singh’s legacy, despite having many royal wives. However, she was given the title of Maharani post her act of sati upon the king’s death. Her footprints are revered along with that of Maharaja Bhaktawar Singh’s inside the chhatri.
The Sagar Lake beside this spot offers a pleasant view of the Alwar city palace, the Bala Quila as well as the adjoining chhatri. This 19th-century water body has survived since ancient times and has been satisfactorily restored. With 12 red-sandstone chattris on its bank protruding horizontally, the architectural splendour and reflections light up the otherwise greenish waters of the Sagar. The scene is an eclectic mix of red, white, pastel shades and the green algae of the pond. Alwar is a reminder of rich bygones and serves as a perfect weekend getaway from Delhi.