As you venture to the northernmost city in the world, Tromso, you’ll find yourself, like thousands of others, searching the skies for the dance of the green lady—the Aurora Borealis. But for those seeking an adventure beyond the Northern Lights, sailing into Tromso’s fjords gives you a chance to hunt for the lights with some company—whales, the gentle giants of the sea. The city has emerged as one of the world’s most reliable whale-watching destinations during the winter months.
To experience this natural spectacle, board the MV Quest, an expedition ship which was originally built for Polar expeditions off the coast of Greenland. Today, its panoramic deck is the perfect platform to spend long hours scanning the arctic waters for Ahab's obsession. Leaving behind Tromso’s city lights, the ship heads into darker waters where aurora activity is often high. As twilight breaks on the horizon, coloured with rosy streaks of pink, the vessel enters the waters of Skjervoy.
Aboard the ship, you can’t help but wait with bated breath for a real-life Free Willy moment. For those who grew up on the 1993 cult classic, spotting a whale in the wild can feel like stepping into the film’s climactic scene. Ask the friendly bartender aboard the ship to play Michael Jackson’s iconic song as the ship speeds across the choppy waters.
These waters, rich in herring, become active feeding grounds for humpback whales and orcas from late autumn to mid-winter. Orcas, one of the stars of Free Willy and the apex predator of these waters, travel in coordinated pods. Their dorsal fins parting the icy waves are often the first sign of their presence. Interestingly, orca, or the ‘killer whale,’ is part of the dolphin family. The humpbacks, larger and often more acrobatic, sometimes breach—a rare sight where they propel themselves dramatically out of the water, with a backflip that deserves a standing ovation. For a few seconds, they turn into graceful soaring arctic spirits, taking the opportunistic seagulls coasting the air currents by surprise. The seagulls often hover eagerly over the whales, happy to jump in and steal a beak-full of herring.
Onboard naturalists use hydrophones to allow guests listen in on whale communications. The soundscape—a mix of slicing splashes in the water, whistles, and deep calls beats any of Hollywood’s CGI enhancement. Meanwhile, guides offer science-based briefings on whale behaviour, conservation, and climate-related threats to marine habitats.
The landscape adds another layer of drama. The ship navigates between narrow fjords, carved over approximately 40 ice ages that Norway has experienced. You’ll be in the heart of this dramatic geological phenomenon, with towering cliffs and occasional waterfalls cascading into the glacial-carved valleys. The fjords are bordered by little fishing villages with colourful wooden houses stacked like blocks of Lego, some dating all the way back to the 1700s!
The waters are steeped in local folklore—Sámi legends often describe whales in these areas as spiritual guides or omens. They even believed that the Northern lights were created from the spume of water ejected from whales.
The onboard kitchen is proud of its food which is inspired by Nordic and Sámi culinary traditions. Think meat stew slow-cooked with juniper berries, served alongside root vegetables and lingonberry compote. For a lighter bite, there are warm, fluffy Norwegian waffles, topped with a generous slather of brunost—Norway’s signature caramelised brown cheese, with its sweet-savoury flavour. Pair it with a cup of steaming cloudberry tea, rich black coffee or glogg (a delicious mulled wine served during Christmas), and you’ve got the perfect Arctic comfort food on board.
By the time the ship returns to Tromso, its warm lounges are filled with stories of sightings. For those willing to swap tropical vacations for thermal layers and binoculars, whale spotting in the Arctic is more than just bucket-list item. It’s a grounded expedition that delivers the rare thrill of seeing cinematic legends in the heart of the ocean.