He is 59, but his mind works like a 25-year-old. The master weaver of Odisha, Bhikari Meher is a unique blend of youth and experience. His classic designs have been lapped up by connoisseurs of Sambalpuri sarees, while his modern-day innovations sell like hot cakes.
Bhikari, who is credited for a design based on Chitra Kabya Bandhodaya authored by legendary Odia poet Upendra Bhanja aka Kabi Samrat, has now come up with a new design that brings to life the Devadasi/Mahari culture of Odisha temples.
The rare trait of developing modern designs to give Sambalpuri saree a new identity while maintaining the core of the traditional ikat is what separates the master from most weavers of his time.
Born in Barpali, a small town of Bargarh known for its exquisite ikat, Bhikari is a perfectionist in Bandha Kala (tie and dye)—a core element of Sambalpuri handloom products. Having dropped out after Class VII, he learnt the nuances of weaving at an early age from his father Suna Meher and started weaving independently when he was barely 15. He was registered as a skilled weaver under Sambalpuri Bastralaya Handloom Cooperative Society Limited (SBCSL) at the age of 18.
Not long ago, the master craftsman created a new design, Barnabibha, based on Odia alphabet. “The idea came to my mind after the Odia language got classical language status. I wanted to commemorate the landmark decision through Barnabibha silk saree which was appreciated by the admirers of Sambalpuri sarees,” says Bhikari. Mass production of these designs has begun.
Apart from using Odia, he has created a new design using English alphabet. “I am working on ideas for distinctive Sambalpuri design of Saktapar, besides geometrical designs, keeping in mind the taste of customers in bigger cities,” says the weaver of SBCSL, Bargarh.
“I am in touch with the staff of the design section and marketing officials of SBCSL to track the demand of customers in metropolises,” says Bhikari, who has made more than 600 saree designs in Sambalpuri ikat besides for dress materials and wall hangings. The sarees produced by him come with a heavy price tag, ranging between `8,000 and `30,000.
Years of perseverance helped Bhikari hone his skills to create designs using traditional and modern motifs and recreate them on yarn.
Some of his popular saree designs are Mahalaxmi, Chitra Kabya, Sobhamayee, Sudhamayee, Tejaswini, Jamini, Avanti, Ashwini and Rudrakhee. For the last couple of years, he has been concentrating on Sambalpuri silk sarees, locally known as Pata.
Ten weavers work under him. Bhikari has also recreated 40 designs of high-profile designers such as Pallavi Verma, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rakesh Kumar Thakore, Anjali Kalia and Bibhu Mohapatra on yarn under the Design Reference Collection of Odisha Handloom Project.
In 2012, he won the Sant Kabir Award for weaving Hanuman Chalisa on silk wall panel. The work was titled Sacred Chant. Prior to this, he had won the National Award in 2010, instituted by the Ministry of Textiles, for his craftsmanship and contribution to development of the tie-and-dye silk saree in recognition of the design Chitra Kabya Bandhodaya.
In 2012, Bhikari was appointed master trainer by the textiles and handloom department of Odisha to impart training on the new skill of modern dyeing techniques. “I have provided guidance to 239 semi-skilled weavers to earn a livelihood,” he says.