One day, Australian videographer Lucy Zee ran short of plates when she threw a party. Undeterred she put out the food on a sheet of brown paper on the table. The grazing table was born. Parul Pratap, executive chef, Music and Mountains, Delhi, who recently set up one for a private party gives it a desi twist: “It also draws from India’s age-old way of eating together.”
What is it?
On a large table is placed a thin sheet of paper. Bite-sized hors d’oeuvres of just about anything and everything are laid out from one end of the table to another. Fruits, olives, and cheese are a constant, so are dips. Cold cuts, exotic nuts, crackers, seafood, vegetable sticks, peppers, bread—make it as simple or exotic as you want. Plates and cutlery? Nope.
What makes it great?
Pratap says grazing sheets make a party more intimate and informal minus the liveried waiters. She says, “It harnesses a sense of community that food tends to build.” Her recent layout resembled a decadent food installation using a huge granite slab base. Wooden planks are okay too. “A grazing table gives a party the wow factor,” she says. Wedding catering companies have begun to explore the grazing table idea. They’re gaining popularity at cocktail parties, bachelor dos, mehendi nights, birthdays and anniversaries.
Home parties
At private parties, the grazing feast can be the centrepiece with tiered plates to add elevation. Select a place roomy enough for guests to move around and admire the arrangement. “A well-put grazing table has premium ingredients, intelligent pairing and diverse flavours. Avoid sweet with savouries. The food should be bite-sized sans sauces,” says Vikram Ganpule, executive chef, Andaz Delhi. Place moisture-laden items on a non-porous base. Don’t leave white spaces on the table. “It allows you the freedom to be as much a part of the party as your guests,” says Chiquita Gulati, chef and co-owner, Gulati Spice Market, Delhi.
The desi challenge
Indian finger foods are largely drippy, greasy or sticky. “We love our food hot. We also like to be served. These are polar opposites to the grazing plating concept,” says Gulati, adding, “Indian food’s versatility leaves scope for creativity and makes Indian food lovers comfortable.” Pratap’s suggestions? “Parsi style devilled eggs, Goan chorizo on mini pao, aloo chaat canapés, bite-sized malai koftas, Chicken 65 mini tostadas, cottage cheese skewers and mini stuffed paranthas with raita which serves as a dip,” she suggests. Ganpule reminds you of the vast Indian regional repertoire of dhokla, patra, khandvi, chaats on papdis and vegetable chips, among others finger foods.
Health factor
Health nuts would love grazing tables. “Faux nuts contain more calcium than milk. Add them with salt and pepper to clarified butter. Walnuts and chia seeds high in omega 3 are a good replacement for buttered popcorn or chips. Include mashed cauliflower tikkis and rice cakes as they are a source of good carbs,” says Nutritionist Gaurav Taneja.
Drawbacks
Indian food put outside goes bad sooner than most European snacks. Hygeine horrors can be a put off at a grazing table. Says Zee, “That gross guy you work with at office, who does not wash his hands in the bathroom, he’s just fingered through the mixed nuts looking for a grape to go with a strawberry cheese stick.” Replenishing the snacks costs time and patience. Grazing tables pack everything closely together, so vegetarian guests may have a problem.
Does it have a future?
Versions of the grazing table have always been there and will continue to reign, says Gulati. “But the times for super formal dining seem to be behind us. Now people enjoy casual get-togethers where food isn’t fussy.” Amazing graze indeed.
An ideal spread
“I would add cooked foods in addition to cheese, cold cuts, fruits and berries. Goat cheese and smoked aubergine tartlets, zaatar pizzettes with cumin gouda, feta, mint and tomato conserve crostini, pork belly cubes served with dates infused whole grain mustard, mini waffles, trio of olives tapenade crostini, dark chocolate and blue cheese cheesecake bites can go in there. There will be an assortment of sliced sourdough bread with a slew of flavoured butter, in addition to flavoured cream cheese,” says Parul Pratap.