In a bid to make the heritage embroidery of Parsi gara progressively relevant, Ashdeen Lilaowala, in his outing at the last Lakme Fashion Week, showcased a collection that wasn’t exactly how the world perceives the timeless embroidery technique.
However, in doing so, he revealed a dimension of this vintage art form that is eclectic, modern and trend-defying.
Motifs prevalent in Parsi gara were brought together in a uniquely contemporary manner on silhouettes and separates that were chic, slick and wearable.
Apart from the gorgeous saris that the label is lauded for, it was this unique interpretation that floored connoisseurs who appreciate handmade.
His collection, Memories on Cloth, showed a design sensibility that is steeped in heritage yet contemporary in execution.
Because, while it was inspired by memories and vignettes that Lilaowala grew up with, the modern rendition made you travel to the present.
This was a collection for style divas with an outlook that is independent, bold, yet respectful of craft traditions.
“We created a collage of childhood memories on cloth taking from some of the clothes my sister and I wore as children. We reinterpreted them on kimonos, sling dresses, jackets, flared pants and skirts. The idea was to present a mishmash of terrific design and vintage embroidery that is high on aesthetics and wearability,” says Lilaowala.
Fabric and embroidered garments were always part of the designer’s life. Growing up in a Parsi household in then-Bombay, he talks of fond and distinct childhood memories of being dressed with his sisters in traditional jhablas for festive occasions or in a dagli and a kor sari for fancy dress parties.
“Luckily, these nostalgic moments were photographed by my parents. Those tinted pictures (some of which we shared on our social media as a run up to the show to whet audience curiosity as well as inform them as to where this idea germinated), have become tangible mementos of the past as well as inspiration for this collection,” he explains.
For Spring, the label has reinterpreted traditional motifs and colours from these old photographs. Keeping silhouettes simple and elegant, the focus has been on hand-embroidery.
Exploring inter-cultural flora and fauna intrinsic to traditional Parsi gara embroidery, memories of childhood jhablas with their bows, roosters, birds and butterflies were brought alive.
The designer, who is clearly the leading name in Parsi gara-inspired couture creations in the country, adds, “Another cherished embellishment of our childhood was lace. Its essence being both revealing and protecting; be it on the sacred undergarment or sudreh or the lace ornamenting Parsi homes. The subtle beauty of lace, once commonly taught as a craft to Parsi girls, has been recreated here by hand embroidery. Combining craft traditions while sustaining a cultural heritage, this is an apt way of celebrating sustainable development goals.”
Sustainability centres around designing timeless craft while providing economic benefit to artisans. Through this environment friendly method of the hand-crafts of India, the label’s creations are giving them a much needed and rightful longevity.
“These heirlooms will last several lifetimes. This is our tribute to timeless beauty. Our creations almost become protective symbols of an art tradition where the joy of creativity also counters fast fashion,” he says.
Playing with placement of motifs and patchwork detailing, Lilaowala’s artistry promises mindful luxury, keeping culture and craft alive.
A permanent treasure to be enjoyed for generations while sustaining heritage and style.