In the parched landscape of Kutch, Gujarat, intricate motifs are hand block-printed on fabric, coloured with the dyes extracted from nature and dried out in the open sky as if making an offering to the Sun God. Concept clothing label Vraj:bhoomi pioneers the contemporary revival of this craft known as ajrakh.
Proud to be a “one craft label,” each of Vraj:bhoomi’s collections focuses on reinterpreting the age-old technique of ajrakh printing. “We have stayed true to its traditional colour palette. The shades and tones of these natural dyes are extensively dependent on its surroundings, and thus, the results are highly unpredictable,” says founder and creative head, Bhoomi Dani, a graduate from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) where she specialised in textile design.
It is this unpredictability that lends it its uniqueness and the fact that Dani uses contemporary motifs along with traditional blocks for a perfect blend. Taking inspiration from across the world, this local craft is also given a global twist. “We bring together Indian elements to a sensibility very global in its appeal. The label focuses on comfort and ease. Hence, soft and breathable cotton in relaxed silhouettes characterises our oeuvre,” says Priyam Shah, partner and business head.
The brand has been lovingly nurtured by this curious pair of contrasts who share a common love for textiles and all things handmade. Dani talks about her special love affair with ajrakh, “Since my college days, I was actively involved in researching, reviving and sustaining the inherent quality of traditional Indian crafts, and consistently seeking to push boundaries in the creation of a new aesthetic using old-world and traditional processes. While it’s ajrakh I most relate to, we would, however, love to venture into other textile crafts as well. At Vraj:bhoomi, we are committed to reliving each craft and extending this philosophy, we would love to explore the intricate hand embroideries of Banni and the beautiful weaves of Bhujodi as well.”
The brand specialises in womenswear and the collection comprises kurtas, kaftans, tops, overlays, dresses, saris, dupattas and scarves. To compliment this further, they also curate women’s footwear and bags. Being a zero-waste label, Vraj:bhoomi tries to utilise all the leftover fabric. Hence, one can find quirky accessories and gifting products such as textile jewellery, diaries, bag charms, bowties, pouches and more. They also do a limited range of home products such as cushion covers and wall hangings. The brand is also looking at exploring menswear in the near future.
Dani explains the creative process, “The idea of a product at Vraj:bhoomi doesn’t start at design level—it begins as a shared effort between the designer and the artisan. We work closely with desert artisans and provide various inputs including design, quality control, access to raw materials and production coordination.”
Not surprisingly, the brand has its own unique repertoire of motifs and print art works. Maintaining a perfect balance between traditional design philosophy and contemporary style in a way that the resulting garment connects with people, is what the team drives at. “We try and create the perfect synergy of innovative patterns and immaculate tailoring, coming up with designs that suit the classic and contemporary in equal parts. We explore the traditional Indian textiles and translate those to the most urban and chic outfits,” says Shah, who is actually an aviator with a passion for art.
The pandemic did affect their business, the duo says, but the crunch was not felt as much as the brand is largely an online business. Shah believes that the current scenario has made customers introspect and become more inclined towards sustainability and eco-friendly fashion. Together, the two want to encourage people to consider where their clothing comes from, and to prove that Indian fashion can be modern and luxe whilst still maintaining its traditional design philosophy.