Think lawyers and what comes to mind first? A picture of monochrome. An image that has remained unchanged for years. Really, women lawyers go about their work through hot and humid Indian summers in their crisp white saris with a heavy black coat, by no means a comfortable attire in our crumbling, non-AC courthouses. Luckily for them, Save the Loom’s latest sari collection for lawyers—Vidhi (meaning law)—is a step in the writ, err right, direction.
Ramesh Menon, founder of Save the Loom, says, “There were many factors that we considered while designing this collection. While we wanted to make the sari-wearing experience for women lawyers a comfortable one, there was also the added ambition to make the typical Kerala kasavu more universal in its appeal. Many women, including lawyers, do not invest in the kasavu, which uses a 80 by 80 count. It is too sheer and fine to drape without starching. This makes it difficult to carry through the day, especially as workwear in our Indian summers.”
Essentially kasavu means zari. It has become synonymous with off-white/kora textiles from Kerala with gold/silver border or motif. It is symbolic of the Kerala identity, but to find a larger audience what was needed was to empower artisans to weave textiles that have universal appeal. Working with handloom clusters in Chendamangalam in Kerala, Menon experimented with finer counts giving the saris a more luxurious feel.
Taking inspiration from mushru silk, which boasts a cotton base with a silk sheen, Vidhi’s monochrome palette brings together a contemporary aesthetic. From half-and-half saris, patterned blouses and geometric accents, there are also saris with reversible dual pallus. All of which makes it easy to transform from workwear to a post-work evening out with friends. Then, there are smart woven elements such as horizontal stripes, which are hidden under the court gown at work, and in the evenings once you take off the gown, voila, you’re in a whole new look.
Menon and his team had to adhere to the decorum of the courtroom, so they spent a lot of time speaking to legal professionals, gauging their concerns and understanding exactly what it was that they were looking for. In fact, some sample saris were also sent out to women lawyers to try out and their feedback was then incorporated into the final products.
“There is a dress code set by the Bar Council of India under the Advocates Act, 1961, much of which is continuing since the British era. For us to design within those rigid parameters and bring in ingenuity was challenging. But we were able to develop a textile that suits the weather, can be worn for long hours and allows for easy maintenance. Besides, it does not restrict the wearer to a ‘uniform’ mindset,” he says.
Significantly, the collection was launched last month on the birth anniversary of Justice Anna Chandy, the first woman advocate of India. The new line is also dedicated to the organisation’s founding patron, Late Justice KK Usha, the first female chief justice of Kerala. An ever-developing line, the first launch has 11 designs—each named after a legendary legal luminary.
“Besides, the saris carry a handwritten tag attributing the weaver and giving a brief information on the judges of yore who brought glory to their profession. All the textiles are hand-washed, de-starched, ironed, hand-hemmed and packed in fabric bags made from upcycled deadstock—employing almost 15 people in the making of one sari,” Menon says.
The launch has been staggered for now, due to the ongoing pandemic. Nevertheless, the response has been encouraging, with orders and inquiries coming in. “We are also receiving feedback to incorporate other elements which the lawyers feel works for them. And I am sure this will also be a cue for weavers elsewhere to develop textiles on the same lines. The entire ecosystem needs to be contemporised upholding the traditional skills, processes and values,” he signs off.