The Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2021-2022 Show at the Paris Couture Week that showcased talent from across the world, had a small Byculla connection as well. The show’s stunning backdrop—an installation drawing inspiration from French artist Eva Jospin, created by the Chanakya Ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft, Mumbai. The first physical fashion show since the pandemic struck, the runway may have been at the Musée Rodin, but the walls propping the show were embroidered right here in the midst of Mumbai.
An extremely young space, the Chanakya School has been launched by sisters-in-law Monica Shah and Karishma Swali. Coming from a family known for its embroidery work for international labels such as Fendi, Gucci, Valentino, Lanvin and Prada, the duo also have the label JADE by Monica and Karishma to their credit. About the installation, Shah says, “For the show, a silk room was created, embroidered entirely by hand by our artisans at Chanakya and women graduate artisans from the Chanakya School of Craft. Titled Chambre De Soie (Silk Room), the work paid rich tribute to both the Indian-inspired embroidery room at the Palazzo Colonna in Rome and to Virginia Woolfe’s A Room of One’s Own.”
Created using 150 embroidery techniques and 400 shades of organic silk, cotton linen and jute threads over a period spanning many months, the team stuck to the brief shared by Dior—recreate Jospin’s landscape and forest artworks on the panels. “The work was thought of as an altarpiece, but the scale was that of a real forest. The embroideries, therefore, have a lot of minute detailing but there is also a play of layers that lend to the realism of this theme while still keeping it contemporary,” says Swali.
The team began by experimenting with different techniques to explore various interpretations. The first step was to create real size artworks which ran into 350 sq m. The following steps were to transfer these artworks in sections and print them onto the silk fabrics—after which began the painstaking task of layering embroideries to create the mystical landscape.
From micro couching in fine metallic threads to macro couching in jute and linen, French knot in many dimensions as well as variations of the Indian bullion knots; back stitch, chain, stem stitch and saddle stitches; applique work, patchwork, hand painting and satin stitch, it is a celebration of various embroidery techniques. “We chose to use only organic handwoven fabrics and raw materials. A handwoven basket weave silk was used for the base and we backed it with an organic canvas to sustain the weight and magnitude of the panels. Everything was processed using vegetable dyes. Sustainability of craft and of the planet is very close to our heart, and this project allowed space for both,” says Swali.
The Chanakya team worked on this project for almost 60 days with over 320 artisans. “Over 1,80,000 hours of embroidery have gone into realising this dream. As a country, we are blessed to have the world’s widest artisanal skills that are truly unique to us and define luxury and master craftsmanship. At Chanakya, our biggest strength is our artisans. It is because of our father’s vision and passion for the craft that we have with us some of the finest artisans in the world who are capable of true magic,” says Shah.
As creators of luxury, the extraordinary and the exclusive drive Swali and Shah’s passion. They are always working on artistic expressions through embroidery and textiles while at the same time reinventing crafts. “In the near future, we see school of craft growing as a centre of excellence for multi-dimensional learning focussed on the preservation of exemplary Indian master crafts while investing in their reinvention and innovation. Together, we can all create a more inclusive tomorrow that consciously preserves communities, craft and our environment.”