Beach shorts and sunblock are no longer where it’s at in Goa. A growing chunk of the seven million-odd tourists who visit India’s sunshine state every year now heads inland to newer experiences and zanier adventures, from heritage walks to kayaking through mangrove estuaries to spiritual episodes of the feni kind.
Meet Goa regular Ferjad Hazarika, a frequently encountered tourist sub-type usually found chilling at the beaches and shacks of this sunshine state. Things are changing, however, and even for regulars like Hazarika. For this finance professional, this seaside haven has now become an exploration of a different side every time.
“Now I spend all my time exploring the cafes and restaurants in the beautiful inland villages of Assagao and Saligao, visiting the busy Mapusa market in the mornings for local produce, trying Goan staples at food trucks or grabbing a midnight beer in Chapora,” he says, adding, “Being a foodie, most of my activities centre around food, but all these places offer so much more in terms of history, heritage, nature, adventure. This is a side of Goa I had no idea existed, and which I cannot stop returning to now.”
Last year, over 70 lakh tourists had packed their bags to Goa headed for the usual attractions of sunbathing on deck chairs with cold beer and prawn balchao, partying on a yacht, strolling into upscale restaurants or dancing the New Year away on beaches to the sight of fireworks illuminating the sky. Hazarika’s searches and discoveries typify the sea change in Goa over the last couple of years. This is Goa season, when the old is rung out in the beer and cafreal shacks on the sand, the bars overflow, the restaurants overcharge and a room in a hotel costs more than a month’s wages. But the state’s known charms go beyond parasailing on Anjuna beach. Now this coastal tourist magnet has all-new hubs that provide an experience different from the usual.
Go crab catching in the backwaters. Play with dolphins in the waters off Sinquerim, watched over by the ancient lighthouse of the 17th-century Aguada Fort. Spot crocodiles on the banks of Zuari river. Go on spice walks. Visit a villa reputedly haunted by the ghosts of three kings in South Goa. Take a selfie with Sachin Tendulkar at the Benz Celebrity Wax museum in Calangute. Goa has begun to give up its secrets. Previously little-known or overlooked small towns and villages have transformed themselves into fresh go-to places. These are places that still retain their idyllic charm and picture-postcard looks, while offering a slice of this travel heaven that you wouldn’t otherwise be privy to, through tailor-made, intimate experiences. For visitors like Hazarika, these make perfect recipe for a unique holiday.
Ex-supermodel and TV show host Joey Matthew of Love Bites with Joey fame is one of those bringing about the change. Matthew moved to Goa from Delhi in 2016 for what she calls a decade-long sabbatical. She says, “The primary reason for moving here was that my dog, Moses, was getting epileptic fits every alternate day in Delhi, while my own breathing had started to suffer too. At the same time, my boyfriend and I wanted to spend more time together and start something on our own.” She now runs a little B&B called Daily Grind with her boyfriend in Mandrem, North Goa, and indulges in a host of new experiences such as breathwork sessions, contact dancing, acoustic rock festivals and more.
The search for novel experiences drives the shift as growing numbers of discerning travellers fan out to Goa’s up and coming destinations.
Perversely, the Covid pandemic helped catalyse this shift, as remote and hybrid work cultures made it possible for more people to spend longer times in Goa, in turn facilitating the innate human desire to explore the unexplored. Goan native Charmaine Pereira, known for being India’s first woman kiteboarder and the first Indian woman to kayak the 160-km stretch of the Gulf of Mannar, runs an outfit called Sahasea offering non-motorised water sports such as kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, surfing and more.
Pereira says that exposure to offbeat experiences has increased exponentially due to Instagram. “The crowd has been moving northward, away from popular Anjuna and Vagator, for a while now. Mandrem, Ashwem, Morjim are some of the places where the serious travellers can be found now,” Matthew says, adding, “There are places that host a beautiful live fusion concert one night, and on another an ecstatic dance workshop to music playing over headphones, with no alcohol or substances in the scene… just a complete spiritual experience.” It’s safe to say that Goa is witnessing a revival of sorts in its image and what it has to offer.
Stroke by Stroke
Kayaking is one of the new to-dos, and all rivulets lead to Siolim. For years, Siolim has stood at the crossroads of North Goa’s most frequented party destinations of Anjuna and Arambol, and more recently to the new Mopa Airport. But besides its magnificent St. Anthony’s Church—standing tall and gleaming white—the unsullied village has remained largely off the radar. Unknown to many, it is also home to one of Goa’s most important mangrove ecosystems that play a crucial role for the coastal state. Kayaking presents the best way to experience the unique charm of Siolim’s mangroves.
A perfect outdoors activity for adults, kids and even pets, the slow-paced, self-paddling tours last an hour or two, taking you through the rivulets of the Chapora estuary with gorgeous views of the about 400-year-old Goan homes along the way. It is year-round action during high tide; the kayaking routes are charted depending on the water level. Golden hours and rainy days are recommended. “Goa continues to lose its green cover more rapidly than one would like. Through experiences like kayaking that are easy to indulge in even for non-swimmers, we can only hope to have some of these important conversations highlighting the plight of our dying ecosystems,” says Pareira.
If kayaking doesn’t float your boat, make a beeline for the 70m-high Harvalem waterfalls in northern Goa. The cascading waters and virgin greenery can ease the most chaotic minds. How about a swim, and non-salty at that? Head to the Gram-worthy Paliyem Sweet Water Lake, a lagoon nestled at the far end of the pristine Arambol beach, roughly 25 km from Panaji. The more adventurous can book a Jeep safari through the Dudhsagar waterfalls which literally takes you through the frothy white water. The list of Goa’s water sports is long. Crab-catching with homemade nets (called kobblem) is modish; and you can eat the crustaceans too. Houseboat dining sessions in Chapora are fully booked in season for overnight trips. Glide gently along the Mandovi river, and watch the tiny villages, farmland and old churches gleaming white in the sun.
If an afternoon of fishing is your thing, the fishing rod and tackle is all yours. After a spell of stargazing on the upper deck, retire to bed in your air-conditioned cabin to wake up to an authentic Goan breakfast: rice or jackfruit flour bhakri on a banana leaf, sweet buns, Goan sausage chilli fry with poi. Committed anglers can always go to the next level and book a fishing trip or a deep sea fishing experience. The tour companies will provide expert local fishermen as guides. You can’t escape water in Goa. Grand Island, 46 km off the coast is where scuba diving lives. The sea here is perfect for even rookies.
Feni Feelings
On the subject of eating, drinking is not faraway. If it is Goa, it has to be feni with a twist of surprise with the lime. The historic Cazulo Fazenda, a century-old family-owned distillery nestled in Cansaulim, South Goa, is the spiritual home of this singular cashewnut liquor triple-distilled in pots. Feni is made from both cashew apples and coconuts that are bounteous in Goa. At the distillery—which is easy to miss because of an inconspicuous turn through a thicket of trees—you’re met by Hansel Vaz, a geologist who quit his Fortune 10 company job in New Zealand to return to Goa and revive his ancestral feni distillery.
Under his guidance, the ‘Floating Feni Experience’ commences with a stroll through the verdant cashew plantation. Much like the curated wine experiences at the vineyards of the nearby Nashik region, and the wine tours in Napa Valley and Tuscany where the itinerant vino maven can head for home with a bespoke bottle clutched in one hand and grape juice stains on sandalled feet, now Goaphiles can become feni-cianados at the distillery. They are taken through the feni-making from fruit-crushing to distillation in earthen pots buried in the ground. The highlight of the experience is the tasting, conducted at a setup in a natural spring, where you dip your bare feet in the cool water while being seated at a community table with fellow guests. It offers a sensory exploration of three expressions of feni—cashew, coconut and Dukshiri, made from the roots of a rare plant.
The immersive experience ends with a visit to the feni cellar, showcasing an impressive collection of over 1,200 multicoloured garrafões, or big-bellied glass bottles, traditionally used to store and age feni. The haven of mangroves, Chorão Island is the place to book a feni tasting with locals. If the local cashew liquor tastes a tad alien, there is always beer. Goa Brewing Co. in Sangolda, the sunshine state’s second microbrewery, is where you grin and beer it. Situated in an antique Portuguese mansion, it produces small seasonal batches. The Eight Finger Eddie craft beer is the star of the lot, with many pubs in the state vying for a share. Being non-conformists, they also craft a cherry-flavoured stout and a doughnut-flavoured beer in the many roomed mansion surrounding a picturesque sunny courtyard.
A street food crawl is the best culinary journey a novitiate can expect to gorge on Goan fish curry and prawns. The spell of Portugal lingers everywhere in its formal colony; it is there in the piquant flavour of fish recheado, the spicy sweetness of a pork vindaloo, and the cloying sweetness of bebinca. For example, Feni and Tapas—Food Trail with Tastings & Drinks by Make It Happen which is favoured by foreigners is a guided amble through Panaji’s local restaurants with a (perhaps juiced-up) visit to the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception and a halt at the Palace of Yusuf Adil Shah. To take another quaint walking tour you have to drive about a hour and half from Goa to Campal, a picturesque settlement along the Mandovi river. It is a living postcard of olde worlde homes, and fragrant riverside gardens splashed with orchids.
Hitting the Right Note
Sound beats the sights now. And it heals. Picture yourself lying in shavasana on a yoga mat in the double-heighted living room of a four-bedroom villa. An expansive glass wall opens to panoramic views, with a turquoise pool set against a backdrop of a serene backwater, fringed by coconut trees. Soon, a young man in dreadlocks, donning a kurta and shorts, comes in bearing an assortment of musical instruments—flutes of varying sizes, a couple of singing bowls and a large metallic hand pan.
This is the setting for a sound healing session at the newly opened Kaia Goa, a boutique property, which is putting the North Goan secret of Ashwem on the map. “Curated experiences include cycling in the quaint neighbourhood of Ashwem, fishing with locals, learning how to make a cocktail with local ingredients and the goodness of sound healing,” says Dhaval Udeshi, co-founder of Chrome Hospitality. Rooted in ancient practices, sound healing has been gaining legions of followers with its holistic approach. Utilising instruments like singing bowls, tuning forks and gongs, practitioners create harmonic frequencies believed to resonate with the body’s natural rhythms, promoting relaxation and healing.
Thirty minutes from Goa International airport is Verna Springs, whose waters are believed to possess medicinal properties, especially recommended for people with problems with their joints, eyes and skin. Another Goa parallel to the touristy experience is its spiritual side exemplified by ancient temples such as the red and white Shree Shajtadurga Mandir which was destroyed by the Portuguese and rebuilt in 1713 when the Maratha Empire was at its zenith. The Shri Mangeshi Temple is on the pilgrim’s bucket list. Originally built in Cortalim village, the idol was shifted by Saraswat Brahmins to its present location at Manglesh in Atrunja. In 1560, when the Portuguese started converting locals into Christianity, Atrunja was ruled by the Hindu kings of Sonde of Antruz Mahal.
The oldest temple in Goa, and the only remaining temples made of basalt in Goa is Tambdi Surla of Lord Shiva. The sculptures and figure date back to the 12th century. They are mirrors to Goa’s medieval past: a headless bull, an elephant trampling a horse. Mahashivratri is the time to visit, when the temple festival is on. Another idol that was relocated after the Portuguese destroyed the temple is at the Shri Mahalasa Narayani Devalaya—where the deity is Lord Vishnu in female form—on the plateau of Verna village in Salcette.
Walk the Talk
Assagao is where the prettiest of the new action is. Once known as the ‘Village of Flowers’, this village in North Goa is perhaps the loveliest of all, dotted with tranquil lanes, Portuguese-era mansions and whitewashed churches. Over the years, many a writer, artist, musician, yoga practitioner have found a charming refuge here. In the last year or so, however, Assagao has morphed into the most happening address for a crop of posh new restaurants and cocktail bars, quaint cafés that double up as laidback remote workplaces, and experimental spaces.
Flanked by lush fields and sporting an Indo-Portuguese design language, complete with a traditional balcao with cemented seats and solid teakwood columns, the just-launched Amayah Villas by Aranayam offers a splendid vantage point to experience the vernacular architectural nuances of the village. “The villas have been designed to blend with the character of Assagao,” says Gaurav Khandelwal, Director, Aranayam.
A stay here, akin to living the good old mansion life, comes with a guided village walk conducted by Assagao native Felly Gomes. Commencing at the 1,000-year-old Kator monument—believed to be an ancient temple lamppost—the walk takes you through the picturesque lanes, where Gomes points out landmark mansions and churches, architectural elements like shell windows and intricate gates. Want a taste of Ye Olde Portugal? Head to Panjim’s Latin Quarter called Fontainhas and Lisbon suddenly won’t feel that far away. Multi-hued houses dot the cobblestoned streets, tucked away from the chaotic beaches. Goa is the land of island and islets as much as it is of the Arabian Sea.
Take the ferry from Panjim to traverse 10 km on Mandovi river and you are on Divar Island. Accessible only by boat, this densely wooden island nicknamed ‘village stuck in time’ by locals, is a serene hideaway from the diesel stench of main Goa, and shows off living history: vintage Portuguese villas, old churches and emerald expanses of paddy fields. The best way to wind your way through the undulating terrain is by bicycle. An electric bike is recommended to navigate the hills dotted with caves and ruined temple sites.
Goa is a natural choice for naturalists, with wildlife sanctuaries, bird sanctuaries and a butterfly conservatory. The Socorro Plateau, with green hills and vast grasslands, interrupted by clear streams is an ornithologist’s dream; teeming with spotted doves, Black Kites, the Common Loras, and more.
Hop, Crawl, Party
It’s no secret that back in the 1960s and 70s, Goa was a magnet for the global hippie community. Chapora, with its laidback atmosphere, virgin beaches and free-spirited bohemian vibe, presented an interesting counterculture movement and remained off the tourist grid. Until the Bollywood blockbuster Dil Chahta Hai turned the spotlight on the 17th-century fort perched atop a hill. Today, Chapora is gaining popularity with night owls who venture out to eat, drink, sing, dance or simply people-watch, while hopping from one watering hole to another along the 700-metre stretch of the Main Street.
In the mornings, the street wears a sleepy look. But come night and it becomes a bustling flurry of hole-in-the-wall bars, family-run food trucks, tattoo parlours and shops selling psytrance CDs next to fluorescent beachwear. You can play a round of pool with a local beer in hand at the crowd favourite Darlings Bar, listen to tales of times gone by from patrons at the unassuming Mahalaxmi Bar, sway to live music at Bar High Five, test your own crooning skills at Jukebox Chapora Junction, or shake a leg at the House of Chapora by the jetty. Pro tip: It’s best to base yourself at the new Ibis Styles Goa Vagator, conveniently located a 10-minute walk away from Chapora Main Street.
On the Trail
There’s something for everyone in Goa. For the history buff, a collection of unique museums collectively presents the rich tapestry of the state’s cultural heritage, offering visitors an immersive experience and a deeper understanding of the multifaceted history and traditions. One distinctive attraction is the All About Alcohol Museum in Candolim, the one and only of its kind in India. It provides an intriguing exploration of the history of alcohol production and consumption in Goa, showcasing various traditional brewing methods and a diverse array of spirits.
The Goa Chitra Museum in Benaulim stands out for its extensive collection of over 4,000 ethnographic artefacts, highlighting the agrarian lifestyles of Goa. Designed by renowned architect Gerard da Cunha, the Houses of Goa Museum in Bardez is a testament to the state’s architectural excellence. It celebrates the amalgamation of tradition and modernity, showcasing models, photographs and art installations that depict the evolution of houses in the region.
The Museum of Christian Art stands tall on the Holy Hill in Old Goa, next to the St. Augustine Tower. Once a 17th-century convent, the Convent of Santa Monica is a repository of Christian art depicted through paintings, sculptures, icons, furniture, jewellery and textiles which evoke the Catholic colonisers who ruled for four-and-a-half centuries from 1510. They are the debris of a fading empire, excavated from ruins of abandoned churches after the invaders were ousted.
Empires leave behind ghosts in the spindrift of their retreat. The Three Kings Chapel, a small white building astride Cuelim Hill, in southern Goa is a draw with anyone with a morbid fascination. Superstition is part of the thrill of time; the church is deserted after 6 pm. Portugal has left its stamp on the soil. In Chandor, the Fernandes Heritage House is a growing draw, for its Belgian crystal chandeliers and ornate ballroom. There is something to unravel at each step in this sunshine state, if only, you have the time.
EAT, DRINK & MAKE MERRY
Unique experiences aside, spurring the rise of Goa’s newest destinations is a crop of new restaurants serving world-class menus and craft cocktails amid stunning venues
Nestled in a century-old Portuguese bungalow in Siolim, Hosa does a modern, ingredient-forward interpretation of South Indian cuisine, serving the likes of wild mushroom varuval, duck kottu parotta, Hyderabadi jackfruit kofta, and coconut and curry leaf ice cream.
By a tranquil stretch of Ashwem’s palm-lined beachfront, Sao By The Shore serves a European menu with Goan influences, where prawn sol kadi ceviche and mutton liver pate share space with cocktails infused with kokum, spiced jaggery, jackfruit syrup and other local ingredients.
An instant hit since it launched four months ago, Bawri in Assagao helmed by Chef Amninder Sandhu marries age-old heirloom Indian recipes with haute cuisine aesthetics, in a dreamy setting of rustic bamboo interiors with relaxed floor seating next to a koi pond.
Ingenuously sharing the same space, on the other side of the koi pond, is the Goan iteration of the iconic Vietnamese restaurant, VietNom serving a lineup of authentic Vietnamese dishes presented as visual artistry, complemented with brilliant craft cocktails.
A short walk away is the agave-speciality bar and grazing room of Barfly. Housed in a sprawling 150-year-old Portuguese bungalow, the biophilic space exudes an old-world charm while serving an impressive collection of elevated cocktails and joyful small plates.
Located just beyond the bustle of Chapora’s party stretch, in a mood-elevating space dominated by mosaic tiles, bright hues, Aztec furnishing and an airy outdoor seating, Miss Margarita by Arriba serves a Mexican feast with the largest selection of margaritas in Goa.
One of the best restaurants in South Goa presently, and a five-minute drive away from Betalbatim beach, Juju reimagines timeless Indian fare in a contemporary fashion with regional specialities from around the country served alongside an Indian ingredients-focused cocktail menu.