Desi cool

The Age of Authenticity and Cultural Nationalism is here
A stitch in time: Aaram Viram fuses India’s handwoven heritage with contemporary ease
A stitch in time: Aaram Viram fuses India’s handwoven heritage with contemporary ease
Updated on
10 min read

The sitar isn’t supposed to sound like this. Not here—on a graffiti-splashed rooftop in Delhi, where Gen Alpha sips cold brew and lounges on bean bags under fairy lights. Not now—when the DJ just faded out a trap beat to make way for something older, deeper. And definitely not like this—with the crisp pluck of a string slipping seamlessly into a lo-fi backbeat that feels more late-night playlist than a music sabha. But then, Rishabh Rikhiram Sharma lifts his sitar onto his lap—and suddenly, everything makes sense. The opening notes stretch like breath—calm, deliberate. Then, a beat kicks in. Heads start to nod. The listeners are 19-year-olds in oversized hoodies. Some are here for the vibe, others are curious, and a few know their alaaps from their algorithms.

But as Rishabh slides into an unexpected raga-meets-remix groove, none of that matters. Phones come out—not to scroll, but to record. Instagram Reels are filmed mid-performance. Later, sipping chai in the muggy Delhi heat, sweat glistening on his forehead, Rishabh says, “Gen Z don’t want to be told what to like. They want to feel it.” That’s the heart of his revolution. He doesn’t dilute tradition—he dresses it in denim and lets it jam with synths.

It is Desi Cool. And it’s come for us.

DC isn’t just a trend—it’s a full-blown cultural reclamation with sass, spirit, and spicy mic-drops. From Alia Bhatt’s chiffon-clad firecracker Rani Chatterjee in Rocky Aur Rani ki Prem Kahaani, who re-ignited the seduction of the sari with a flick of her hair and a flash of kohl-lined eyes to Diljit Dosanjh, who strutted into the 2025 Met Gala, donning an ivory ensemble and bejewelled turban by Prabal Gurung that paid homage to Sikh royalty—India is having its unapologetically desi moment. The Renaissance is as intellectual as it is aesthetic. Rapper Hanumankind wields his stage name like a weapon of cultural pride, while mythologist Seema Anand attracts digital audiences with tales of desire from the Kama Sutra, proving ancient knowledge can thrive on Instagram Reels. Kids are falling asleep to gods and demons through Harish Sharma’s Indian Mythology for Kids podcast, while the internet’s favourite animated ghost, ‘Ganji Chudail’, haunts the algorithm with zero hair and maximum desi flair. It’s a deep sociocultural shift. As Dr Suraj Beri, Assistant Professor of Sociology at Nagaland Central University, puts it, “Desi cool includes within it the story of struggle, the story of achievement, and the story of being who you are without fakeness.”

In a world once dazzled by Western modernity, India’s new generation—especially in its Tier 2 cities—is quietly, confidently embracing its roots. And it’s not about nostalgia—it’s about pride, identity, and authenticity. Tier 2 cities like Indore, Surat, Lucknow, Coimbatore, and Bhubaneswar are no longer playing catch-up to Delhi or Mumbai. What stands out is how young people here are blending tradition with modernity. They are as comfortable using UPI for payments at a street-side stall as they are reciting a shloka on Instagram Reels. Youngsters are finding beauty in their regional languages, fashion, cuisine, and stories. Handloom kurtas, juttis, and silver jewellery are now wardrobe staples, not just ethnic-day exceptions. Food bloggers are reviving grandma’s recipes—from thekua to pandhi curry. Festivals like Chhath, Pongal, and Teej are not only celebrated but also documented and shared online. Platforms like Instagram and YouTube have paradoxically become catalysts for this revival. This embrace of desi rootedness is not a retreat into the past, but a recalibration. The youth are confidently saying: “We are Indian, and we’re proud of it.

The diasporic success of Indian-origin artistes, the popularity of regional content on global platforms, and the rise of digital tools have democratised who gets to represent Indian culture. Take the late lamented Sidhu Moosewala, for instance. His global appeal wasn’t in spite of his roots, but because of them. Singing in their language.”

His big break came on MTV Hustle 2.0. “My first presentation was through Seekh, a rap using the Hindi alphabet,” says the 28-year-old. The audience response was electric. For his second performance, Umar Meri 26, he mixed Sanskrit and Hindi, and suddenly everyone was talking. From that moment, there was no looking back. Yet, breaking new ground has its hurdles. “When you do something that exceeds people’s expectations, you receive both praise and criticism,” he admits. He’s faced doubts from traditionalists and raised eyebrows from modernists alike. But he chooses to view every critique as a learning experience. At his core, Shlovij is driven by two forces: self-confidence and devotion. His ultimate message is clear: “Stay connected to your culture and traditions and never abandon your roots.”

When asked about the rippling phenomenon of “Desi Cool,” Shlovij offers a vivid metaphor: “It’s like a rural person who has adapted to urban living and changed their attire accordingly but still remains desi at heart.” For him, that duality is precisely what makes his work resonate so powerfully. Shlovij is proof that the coolest future might just wear the oldest words.

Social Anthropologist Neelakshi Talukdar explains that the rise of Desi Cool fits into the sociological idea of “reflexive modernity”—a phase where societies, while modernising, also start reflecting on and reimagining their cultural identities. “Desi Cool represents a fluid, evolving identity—rooted in what it means to be Indian, yet aware of and open to the Western gaze,” she says. It’s about navigating the push and pull between global influence and local pride.

Gen D is reshaping every category, and in a coffee landscape long dominated by global giants, Adhira & Appa Coffee is brewing something refreshingly local, emotionally resonant, and unmistakably desi. Founded by Hariharan Chandrasekharan in January 2023, this Pune-based entrepreneur set out with a simple but powerful question: why can’t Indian filter coffee become a household name across India, marketed and celebrated the way Western coffees are, but with a story we actually relate to? Guided by mentors from the Startup India initiative and the Kerala Startup Mission 2022, Hariharan set up his first flagship store in March 2025 in Kochi—not only because Kerala understands South Indian filter coffee, but also because it offered a less saturated market than cities like Bengaluru or Chennai. “I wanted to build a universe—like Barbie, Marvel or Harry Potter—but rooted in desi culture,” he shares. The two protagonists, Adhira and Appa, are inspired by his own nine-year-old daughter and himself. “In almost every Indian household, the first hero for a daughter is her father,” Harharan reflects. By building this whimsical, heartfelt world, Adhira & Appa don’t just sell coffee—they ignite connection. “It’s our coffee and our story,” he says proudly.

But the road isn’t without bumps—rising input costs due to inflation, limited access to funding, and the constant battle for consumer validation are ongoing challenges. “As a startup, we can’t raise prices yet. But we’re committed to growing sustainably.” Ultimately, Adhira & Appa Coffee is more than a café—it’s a movement. It proves that when desi becomes cool, it also becomes economically powerful.

There is also the rise of desi fashion, which is more than just a passing trend—it’s a cultural shift rooted in pride, sustainability, and a fresh reimagining of identity. As trend analyst Indrani Bhattacharjee puts it, “Desi fashion—known for its top-notch craftsmanship and sustainable practices—naturally fits into the global shift towards conscious living. It’s become a go-to choice for people who want style with substance.” She highlights how today’s youth are no longer content with blindly mirroring Western styles; instead, they’re boldly pairing traditional saris with Sambas or donning Banarasi or Kanjivaram pantsuits to boardrooms. From the elegance of Nehru jackets to the regal turbans, from cummerbunds to flowing dupattas, global fashion is adorned with elements deeply rooted in Indian culture, often without the rightful credit they deserve. The latest? The Italian luxury brand Prada, which has introduced Kolhapuri-inspired footwear in its Spring Summer 2026 Men’s collection.

In the small, laid-back town of Ranchi, capital of Jharkhand, a 10-member team of passionate fashion enthusiasts led by founder Harsh Jhunjhunwala and co-founder Mridul Shah is reimagining Indian textiles. Their label, Aaram Viram, isn’t just another clothing line; it’s a comfort-first manifesto fusing India’s handwoven heritage with contemporary ease. For Harsh, a NIFT Shillong graduate, the love for Indian crafts and textiles runs deep. Growing up, he felt why weren’t there brands that used Indian textiles to make cool, casual everyday wear? “I didn’t see anything that matched my vibe—handwoven fabrics, rooted in desi culture, but easy and contemporary enough to wear every day,” he shares. That led to the birth of Aaram Viram. While the team operates from a Tier-2 town, their design vocabulary is pan-Indian. From block prints to gota patti and zardozi, there’s no geographical restriction—only a deep reverence for Indian craft. “We’re blending Indian-ness with comfort and nostalgia,” says the 28-year-old. Their bestseller? The Kovalam Dress—a plunging neckline with a backless silhouette in classic desi block print, proving traditional doesn’t have to mean modest or muted. Launched in 2022 and gaining momentum by 2024, Aaram Viram ships nationwide and pops up in curated flea markets. “Young people want authenticity, not imitation,” Harsh notes. His mission: to translate khadi and Indian textiles into timeless, entry-level luxury.

The same ethos is what drives Shreya Ghosh’s jewellery line, Goddess of Glocal, launched in 2024. It is a love letter to India’s artisans—written in silver, gemstones, and centuries-old carving techniques. At 36, with over a decade of groundwork behind her, Shreya has steadily shaped GOG from the desire to represent India’s inimitable artisanal legacy on a global stage. The brand is a celebration of ethical design, intergenerational artistry, and timeless storytelling. Based in Kolkata and retailing globally through their website and curated pop-ups, GOG grew from a foundation of trust and mentorship. “Our statement jewellery is hand-carved by our artisan maestros, who have been murti-makers for generations,” she says. It’s from these spiritual roots that the brand found its name—“Goddess,” drawn from divine iconography, and “Glocal,” embodying the fusion of local craftsmanship with global relevance. Running a value-driven business isn’t without challenges—balancing creative integrity with commercial demands, and protecting artisan welfare while remaining sustainable. But for Shreya, the rewards outweigh the effort. “Staying true to one’s substance is hard,” she admits, “but worth it.” Shreya sees a generation reclaiming its heritage. “Newer generations are not just buying a product—they’re looking for narrative, history, and representation.”

That same spirit of revival pulses through a new wave of design voices across India. In a world where fashion often sidelines craftsmanship for speed, Meld Studio is weaving a different story—one where heritage meets modernity, and tradition is made unmistakably cool. Founded in early 2025 by Sakshi Narang, a fashion veteran from Noida with 16 years in the industry, Meld was born out of a personal frustration. “I worked at multiple fashion companies and realised the export-quality pieces sent abroad were far superior to what was available in the Indian market,” she explains. That’s how Meld came into being. The name, which means “to blend or combine”, is no accident. The brand’s ethos lies in uniting diverse Indian textile legacies into one cohesive piece. “We might use jamdani from Bengal with ajrakh from Gujarat in a single garment,” Sakshi says. Every collection is a symphony of craft forms and cultures, reimagined in versatile silhouettes that aren’t too dressy but still rooted in tradition.

Crafted in honesty: Goddess of Glocal represent India’s inimitable artisanal legacy on a global stage
Crafted in honesty: Goddess of Glocal represent India’s inimitable artisanal legacy on a global stage
Homerun Meld aims to unite diverse Indian textile legacies into one cohesive piece
Homerun Meld aims to unite diverse Indian textile legacies into one cohesive pieceANKIT KUMAR MOURYA

Meld’s audience is the new-age Indian—those who cherish craft but want to wear it every day, not just on special occasions. “Our designs are for people who find desi cool,” she says. What truly sets Meld apart is its radical approach to sustainability. Instead of creating new textiles, the studio sources unsold deadstock fabrics from rural artisans and weavers, then designs around them.

Psychotherapist Mansi Poddar believes that today’s youth are rewriting the rules of identity. “Young people today are not afraid to be who they are, and love what they love, irrespective of societal perspective,” she says. This unbothered authenticity has paved the way for a renewed love for all things desi—content, fashion, language, even the way we present ourselves. She points out how trends once dismissed or ridiculed—like oiled hair or draped dupattas—are now having global moments, reframed as sleek Scandinavian scarves or avant-garde hair statements. This external validation, Mansi notes, has awakened “a sense of possessiveness and ownership” within Gen D.

She stresses that reconnecting with cultural roots through desi aesthetics is more than just a style statement—it’s a deeply healing process. “So much of mental health is tied to knowing who you are and feeling like you belong somewhere,” she explains. Reclaiming desi culture, Mansi says, “feels like reclaiming your power to be who you are, completely and proudly,” bringing with it a sense of security, pride, and inner calm.

A cup of emotions: Founded by Harharan Chandrasekharan, Adhira & Appa Coffee is brewing something refreshingly local
A cup of emotions: Founded by Harharan Chandrasekharan, Adhira & Appa Coffee is brewing something refreshingly local

This spirit of rooted reinvention pulses through India’s music scene, too. Enter Darzi—the stage name of musician Yash Saxena—making waves by sewing together retro desi nostalgia with psychedelic soundscapes and powerful social commentary. He is the true embodiment of DC, where retro Bollywood flair meets fearless storytelling and experimental soundscapes rooted in Indian realities. Growing up, Yash found solace in the strings of a guitar. Music and songwriting became his emotional outlet—a tool to channel energy, redirect emotion, and express better. But the defining shift came in 2019, post-college, when a bout of health issues pushed him to explore music production. As his music evolved, so did his identity. The name Darzi came spontaneously—“It sounded cool, was simple, desi, and just felt like me.” His signature genre is hard to box: lush electronic music layered with disco grooves, touches of psychedelia, and an underlying ring of unsettling melancholy. Think RD Burman meets Bob Dylan in a postmodern jam session. His influences span from the lyrical gravitas of Neil Young and James Taylor to the flamboyant funk of Bappi Lahiri and Prince, along with bits of Western classical symphonies.

Yet, beyond sonic experimentation, Darzi’s work stands out for its emotional and political resonance. His 2022 album Awaaz was born out of visceral discomfort after the 2019 Hyderabad rape case. This 28-year-old Delhilte’s honesty is vulnerable and brave. Darzi’s album art mirrors this duality—bright, retro Bollywood-inspired visuals that flirt with hope and despair, liberation and loss.

A similar spirit of rediscovery fuels the story of Vinay Kothari. In 2018, during a trek through Karnataka’s Western Ghats, he stumbled on handmade jackfruit candies. Their rustic charm and unprocessed sweetness struck a chord. “I wanted to commercialise these wonderful regional products with trust, authenticity, and standardisation—and make them accessible to urban audiences,” Vinay says. With this vision, he founded GO DESi to bring rural, handcrafted sweets and confectionery into urban markets. Their flagship product, Desi Pops, are lollipops crafted from fresh, sun-dried fruit purees—tamarind, lemon, guava, mango. Alongside these, GO DESi’s range includes various sweets like kaju katli, aam papad, and other traditional favourites, all prepared following local recipes. Central to GO DESi’s mission is respect for the artisans and communities behind each product. This Bengaluru-based enterprise has championed employing women’s self-help groups and microenterprises across their manufacturing units in rural Karnataka. Their 2023 Shark Tank India pitch ignited the brand: overnight. Today, that spark has become a blaze—over six million handcrafted lollipops fly off GO DESi’s virtual shelves each month, turning a humble village treat into a nationwide phenomenon.

What was once seen as old-fashioned or niche is now celebrated as authentic and edgy. Whether it’s indie artistes sampling folk tunes, creators speaking in Hinglish, or fashion influencers styling kurtas like streetwear, desi culture isn’t just making a comeback—it’s leading the vibe.

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