Mornings are for Shedding
When 23-year-old Ahaana Sikka, a communications professional from Mumbai, first stumbled on the ‘Morning Shed’ trend on social media, she was intrigued. The concept of applying various skincare products to the face before going to bed and seeing a refreshed new person in the morning promised a transformative experience. Eager, Ahaana incorporated several serums with actives, hydrating essences and moisturisers, occlusives, under-eye patches, a silk hair wrap, and even a mouth tape into her nightly skincare regimen.
The goal of shedding is to enhance skin health and appearance passively, so you wake up glowing and, ideally, get long-term results. While the process can be customised, common elements include topical formulations and physical items such as heatless curlers, mouth tape, a chin strap, eye patches, an overnight sheet mask, and castor oil wraps—all removed in the morning as part of the “shed”, revealing what’s claimed to be smoother, brighter, and more sculpted skin.
But this may not be everyone’s shade of red. “The first few nights felt luxurious,” Sikka recalls, “but in a week, I got tired of the elaborate routine and woke up to tiny breakouts and skin irritation.” Realising that the trend might not suit her skin type or Mumbai’s climate, she immediately consulted her dermatologist, who advised simplifying her routine, focusing on gentle cleansing and moisturising.
According to Dr Feriyal, clinical expert at Jean Claude Biguine, certain elements of the morning shed routine are grounded in sound dermatological principles, particularly when approached with moderation and awareness. “The routine often includes steps like massaging with water-based moisturisers to enhance circulation or applying a thick layer of petroleum jelly over moisturiser to lock in hydration and reinforce the skin barrier overnight,” she explains. These methods, when tailored to individual skin types, can indeed amplify skin hydration and support overnight repair.
One of the primary concerns with the morning shed trend, however, is the careless combination of potent skincare ingredients, warns Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, cosmetologist and founder of ISAAC Luxe. Nighttime is the skin’s peak period for repair and absorption, which is why it’s crucial to use products that support—not sabotage—that natural process. She notes, “Indiscriminate layering without understanding ingredient interaction or skin type suitability can lead to irritation and barrier dysfunction.” She explained how layering actives like retinoids with exfoliants such as AHAs or BHAs, a common mistake within the trend, can severely irritate the skin. Add occlusive agents like petroleum jelly on top, and there’s a risk of amplifying absorption beyond safe limits, leading to dermatitis, sensitivity, or breakouts. Dr Gupta also questions some of the more unconventional elements of the routine, such as applying castor oil wraps on the abdomen or sleeping with LED masks; she emphasises the lack of scientific validation.
Agrees consultant dermatologist Dr Glory Khankar. “These methods can cause more harm than good, especially due to the adhesives used,” she explains. Users risk allergic reactions, skin tears, and irritation from tape removal. Prolonged taping may even cause creases or long-term pressure lines on the face. A common mistake, according to Dr Khankar, is the tendency to overload the skin with too many products and treatments in a single night.
This approach resonates with 26-year-old Delhi-based architect Riya Verma. “I showed my dermatologist a video and discussed what would actually benefit my dry, sensitive skin,” she recounts. Instead of incorporating every viral step, her dermatologist streamlined her routine to just three essentials: a ceramide-rich night cream, a hydrating lip mask, and a silk hair wrap. “I skipped the mouth tape and chin strap because they weren’t relevant to my concerns. It’s made my mornings easier and my skin healthier.”
Morning shed’s appeal lies in its theatricality—a nightly spectacle promising fairy-tale awakenings. Yet, true skin health begins with moderation, personalisation and respect for the skin’s own wisdom. Perhaps the most radical hack of all in today’s commodified skincare industry is simplicity.