AHMEDABAD: The Assam government's restriction on the sale of ‘Mekhela Sador’ and ‘Gamusa’ produced by power looms has caused panic among the Surat power loom weavers. Almost 60% of Assam's usage comes from the Surat Textile industry, which has always been a significant supplier to the North Eastern state.
According to the Surat Weaver Association, the future of more than 1200 small and large-scale weavers has been put in jeopardy. In addition, trade worth 500 crores has also been put in danger, with more than 150 crores worth of ready-made items and over 200 crores dealing stuck.
Assam's government outlawed Mekhela Sador sarees made in Surat, Gujarat, on February 28.
According to estimates, finished items worth 150 crores have fallen in Surat while goods worth more than 200 crores have been sold, and traders have incurred significant losses as a result of the abrupt prohibition without any information. It has been more than a week since the ban was put in place, according to the Surat dealers, and neither a single rupee is being sought nor are any traders from Assam willing to negotiate.
Champalal Bothra, General Secretary of the Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association (FOSTA), told TNIE " The sudden ban, on one hand, will impact about 700 to 800 traders and 300 to 400 weavers along with the labourers associated with the looms producing Mekhela Sador and Gamusa in Surat that has a turnover of around '3,000 crores annually."
Ashok Jirawala, president of the Federation of Gujarat Weavers Association (Fogwa) told TNIE “ It's not just about Mekhela Sador or Gamusa; a large amount of raw material yarn - zari - was also sent from Surat to Assam for making Mekhla, and a sudden halt in this trade would be devastating to Surat's textile industry. We have raised this issue with Union Minister of State Darshana Zardosh and plan to meet with Piyush Goyal in Delhi after Holi.”
Jiten Bhai, a Mekhela Sador trader told to TNIE that “both states have a BJP government, but due to their sudden decision, we have come to the road overnight, and our business has been closed for a week,”
“We have not received any response from the government, and we have spoken to our traders in Assam. They are also scared and have hidden all of our goods; they claim that the Assam government is taking extremely strict measures; how can business be conducted in such a climate? Not only have we lost our jobs, but the daily bread of thousands of families will be taken away as well.” He added
Ashok Jirawala said "Handmade Mekhela Sador are expensive, and not everyone can afford them, whereas our machine-made products are less expensive and have better finishing. Moreover, hand-loomed Mekhela Sador will be unable to meet market demand because it takes a long time to produce a set of Mekhela Sador," Dinesh Bhai Shakmari a Treder of Mekhela Sador told TNIE that“ Handloom Mekhela Sador has sold for around 7,000 to 8,000 Rs, while Surat's machine made Mekhela Sador is available for 500 Rs to 700 Rs, and with the upcoming Bihu festival, Surat traders have made a large quantity of Sador, and unlike Assam, it is not sellable to other states, so the ban will cost Surat traders very heavily.”
What is Mekhela Sador ?
The Mekhela Sador is a traditional Assamese sarong worn by Assamese women. There are two major pieces of cloth draped around the body. The bottom portion, which is draped from the waist down, is known as the 'Mekhela'. The chador is the top portion of the two-piece dress.
Assam Government Notification:
Assam Government notified Stated that “You are all aware that the Registrar of Geographical Indication, Chennai has granted the GI application to the Gamosa of Assam in favour of Directorate of Handloom & Textiles of Assam on 13th December/2022. Now, production of Gamosa of Assam is prohibited from production outside of the state of Assam.”
“Further, according to the Handloom (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985, the manufacturing of Gamosa, Mekhela - Chadar, Dokhana, etc. are reserved for exclusive production by handloom. It is observed that some unscrupulous traders are importing and selling cheap Power Loom Gamosa and other traditional items reserved under this Act.
For better enforcement of the provision of the GI and Handloom (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act,1985, you are requested to make the special drive from 1st February/2023 onward to prevent, the production, import, and sale of Power Loom made Gamosa, Mekhela - Chadar, Dokhana, etc. by the enforcement squad constituted for this purpose with the help District/Sub- Divisional administration.” The notification said