There were no takers for my idea to visit Mount Arunachala, the solitary mountain that towers over the temple town of Tiruvannamalai. A lonely trip to a lonely mountain. Is there a lasting cure for loneliness? Is it possible to be happy in the absence of material sources of pleasure? I believe the answer is yes.
In April 2015, I had an experience where I lost the sense of self—the illusion of being the doer had disappeared. Is there a better place to recapture that experience than the famed Om-shaped Virupaksha Cave on Mount Arunachala, located nearly 1,000 feet above the ground? This is where the exponent of experiential Advaita, Ramana Maharshi, meditated for 17 years.
I take my first look at the mountain from the bus stand and notice a blue billboard with the name ‘Buddha Boarding and Lodging’ emblazoned in green. Both the Buddha and Ramana were on the same quest. They came up with similar solutions too to the problem of everyday dukkha.
There are two ways to the cave—an easier route via the crowded streets flanked by vividly-painted houses near the Tiruvannamalai temple and a steep climb that starts at Ramanasramam, which served as Ramana’s abode in his later years. The path to enlightenment is not supposed to be easy, so I choose the steeper path.
I leave my slippers near the ashram’s entrance. The climb is initially benign. There are no humans in sight. But two species of monkeys give me company—the ubiquitous bonnet macaque with an expressive pink face and the less common fierce-looking grey langur with a pointed tuft on its head and a lengthy tail.
A foreigner with a shaved head is coming down, practising walking meditation. After half an hour, the path becomes steep. Sweat pours down my face. Soon I am presented with a spectacular sight—a bird’s eye view of Tiruvannamalai. The four temple gateway towers are the most prominent sights. It had rained the previous night. I notice a small stream bubbling down. I finally reach the cave after an hour. There are a handful of people inside meditating. The air is fragrant with the scent of camphor. I meditate for an hour and then descend the steps back to the ashram.
The bliss soon wears off. “There is no greater mystery than this—that being the reality we seek to gain reality,” Ramana said. Holy caves might stabilise the ‘enlightenment’ state by providing a suitable environment. But the experience—observing the contents of consciousness and being one with the universe—is available every moment everywhere. That’s the permanent cure for loneliness and the secret to enlightenment.
Prasanna R S
Email: prasanna.smiley.r@gmail.com