Thiruvananthapuram is best known for the Padmanabhaswamy temple situated in the middle of the city. In other words, the city is spread around the temple. I have known this temple since my days as a toddler. The maharaja, who abdicated the crown after Independence, used to visit the temple daily in the morning. During his visit, the public were not allowed into the sanctum sanctorum. Mellifluous music from the flute would be heard in the temple.
The 10-day festivals that were held twice a year meant gala time for the kids. We used to run behind the elephant moving ahead of the deities. The deities were carried on the shoulders of the priests in decorated vahanas. The temple as I knew it during my childhood days was peculiar in so many ways. There were no big hundials to drop cash. The lighting during the evening hours throughout the temple was done only with coconut oil lamps. Electric lamps were not allowed in the temple.
Over the years, things have changed. In 2011 the temple’s vaults were opened. What happened later is known to everyone. It said that a conservative estimate of the wealth in the coffers total to more than `1.2 lakh crore.
After that the temple has been transformed. The quiet serene abode of Lord Padmanabha has been converted into a fortress with a number of revolver and walky talky-wielding policemen. The beautiful temple tower is now decorated with surveillance cameras. The frisking at the gates before the entry is more rigorous than what happens at airports. Over and above this, the dress code has been violated. But the number of visitors has increased tremendously.
There are shops selling momentos and pictures which was unheard of earlier. There are special darshan tickets differentiating between haves and have-nots which was never the case in those good old days. There are many in the guise of guides who blabber half truths. And the intention of the visitors also does not seem to be very noble and pious. Many tourists stop me while doing circumambulation and ask me with a lot of anxiety, “Tijori kidhar hai?” (Where is the vault?).
A quiet walk through the corridors of the temple enjoying the tranquillity and exchanging silent words with the gentle western breeze used to be an elixir to the mind and body in the days bygone. I wondered whether we have lost a treasure island which rejuvenated our spirits—forever. After all, (only?) money matters in today’s word.
Durgadas P V
Email: indu.durgadas@gmail.com