The year was 1985. The foreign holiday destination, so much a part of every other Indian’s getaway plans today, was only the stuff of dreams back then. A visit to the Kashmir Valley was the ultimate summer break.
Things were much calmer there then. No stone pelters, no aggressive azaadi sloganeering, the idyll of paradise on earth was intact. As we made our way through beautiful and pristine Ramban with the river Chenab gurgling by,we could very well believe that this was indeed India’s crowning glory. Tall pine and fir trees lined the pristine hillsides as the bus made its way through one hairpin bend after another.
Crossing the Jawahar tunnel, we entered the valley of Srinagar, the pine trees giving way to the beautiful chinar trees, their leaves turning a golden hue as they got readied to be shed, heralding the advent of autumn.
As we crossed off from our bucket list the usual spots like Shalimar Bagh, Dal lake, ride on the shikaras, the mandatory photo-op wearing the distinctive Kashmiri dress, the Shankaracharya temple, the Hazratbal shrine, etc., we were struck by the friendly and simple local folk who seemed to take so much pride in their land.
Our guide gladly volunteered to take us to an apple orchard, where the owner allowed us to have our fill of the juicy fruit straight from the trees—an experience to be cherished forever.
Yet, with all the warmth, we could sense an undercurrent of hostility—when we were addressed as “you Indians” or when the shopkeeper turned churlish at a fellow tourist trying to get a bargain for the famous namdas (Kashmiri throw rugs).
Much water has flown down the Chenab since then. Just when one was despairing about visiting this heaven ever again, comes this surprising turnaround over Article 370. There will be a lot of churning but when the murky waters clear, let us hope that the embattled Kashmiris too will echo not only about their beloved Kashmir but also about India, Emperor Jehangir’s words: “Gar firdaus bar-rue zamin ast, hami asto, hamin asto, hamin ast” (If there is a heaven on earth, it’s here, it’s here, it’s here).
Sashikala Vijayan
Email: sv305@yahoo.co.in