VIJAYAWADA: Weaving their tales of sorrow, the handloom sector is facing numerous hardships, and it is high time weavers get a helping hand to keep the texture, grace, and dignity of the fabric floating with pride, enabling them to earn a much-deserved livelihood. Faced with stiff competition from the power-loom sector, the hand-spun fabric industry is in crisis, with unsold stocks piling up with cooperative societies and master weavers. Andhra Pradesh holds a significant place in India’s handloom industry, with many weavers relying on it for their livelihood.
It is sad to note that the per capita income of a handloom weaver is Rs 57.67 per day in the State. The sector’s decline is evident from the drop in weaver households from 1,77,000 in 2009-10 to 1,22,000 in 2019-20. The fourth Handloom Census shows 68,982 weavers earn below Rs 5,000 per month, 30,247 earn between Rs 5,001 and Rs 10,000, and only 2,605 get between Rs 20,001 and Rs 25,000. The average annual household income in 2019-20 was below Rs 5,000, with a daily per capita income of Rs 57.67, less than the daily wage under MGNREGA.
The Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers Cooperative Society (APCO) has 1,282 cooperative societies, including 896 cotton, 325 silk, 61 wool, 166 tailoring, and 193 power-loom societies. There are about 2,00,310 weavers in the cooperative fold and 1,58,902 outside it. Around 81,000 power-looms operate within and outside cooperative frameworks. The handloom industry in the State uses various yarns, from natural fibres like cotton, wool, and silk to synthetic blends. However, the sector struggles to obtain quality raw materials at reasonable prices. Ensuring timely supply of quality yarn, dyes, and chemicals is crucial. Establishing regional depots by APCO and a revolving fund for raw materials and operating expenses are essential steps that should be taken.
Mohan Rao Macherla, convenor of the National Federation of Handlooms and Handicrafts (NFHH), emphasised the urgent need to address weavers’ credit requirements. He stated that cooperative weavers are in a precarious position, and those outside the cooperatives lack government support and institutional credit, relying on exploitative master weavers and traders. Ensuring affordable credit through formal banking and providing working capital aid is crucial for sector growth. He suggested extending ESI and EPF benefits to the handloom sector to protect its 3,59,212 workers in AP. He noted that the PRC report recommends a family of three needs Rs 16,452 monthly and suggested raising minimum wages to Rs 19,000. Implementing these measures could help ensure the survival and growth of the State handloom sector.
Devana Veera Nageswara Rao, President of Rastra Chenetha Jana Samakhya, emphasised the importance of domestic marketing. He suggested APCO should enhance brand value and awareness of Andhra handlooms by organizing events like exhibitions, fashion shows, and buyer-seller meets. He also proposed setting up a marketing complex named Village/Chenetha Santha, with land provided free by the state government, to facilitate direct sales by craftspeople.
The health of the weaver community is a pressing concern. Despite welfare schemes, only 6.84% benefit from PMJJBY, PMSBY, and Mudra Loans. Poor health, chronic malnutrition, and suicides are prevalent, worsened by long work hours and food insecurity. According to the weavers, the GST of 12% on textile products, including handlooms, also impacts the handloom sector. Mohan Rao said this is not fair.
