NELLORE: Restaurants across Nellore are witnessing a sharp decline in the availability of genuine Chepala Pulusu, the famed fish curry synonymous with the region’s culinary identity.
Once celebrated nationwide, this signature dish--traditionally crafted from sweet-water Korameenu (Red Snapper) sourced from the Pennar river delta--is rapidly losing traction among food establishments and patrons alike.
Traditionally, Korameenu was naturally found in various rural water bodies, particularly during dry seasons when canals and ponds dried up, exposing the muddy bottoms where these fish reside. However, in recent years, the changing climatic conditions have severely impacted their natural breeding grounds, raising fears of the species becoming extinct.
Currently, this fish is rarely found in villages, and urban hotels are serving fish curry made with farm-bred Korameenu, which lacks the natural flavour of its wild counterpart. According to experts, fish raised in specially prepared tanks taste different from those found in natural settings.
Adding to the crisis is the increasing presence of invasive species like catfish and jellyfish varieties, which feed on ingenious fish, including Korrameenu.
‘Korameenu thrives in muddy waters and it’s very difficult to farm naturally’
The growing pollution in canals and agricultural water sources is further endangering their survival.
Korameenu, a freshwater fish primarily grown in the delta regions of the Pennar river under the Nellore and Sangam areas, is known for its unique aroma and taste, which come from its ability to digest the sweet, muddy soil of the region.
Traditionally, this fish has been considered the perfect fit for the tangy and spicy Nellore fish curry, a dish enjoyed across Andhra Pradesh and even served at events in metropolitan cities by chefs from Nellore.
Local food connoisseurs attribute the dip in demand and quality to two critical factors.
Once abundantly found in mud beds of dried-up canals and ponds, this blackish-coloured fish with wheatish stripes is now becoming a rare sight in the villages.
The latter, grown in riverine tanks around Nellore and Sangam, is known for its aromatic flavour profile-imbued by the nutrient-rich, muddy substrate of the Pennar river.
The skyrocketing price of Korameenu--now retailing between Rs 350 and Rs 400 per kilogram--has made it largely unaffordable for the average diner. As a result, many small eateries have resorted to substituting alternative fish that, while more economical, fail to replicate the dish’s signature characteristics.
"In most hotels, the recipe is nowhere near the taste we expect. The flavour has gradually decreased, and we don’t know why. This sentiment is echoed in the growing trend of families opting to prepare Chepala pulusu at home, ensuring authenticity and value," said K Ramesh, a local resident of Nellore city.
The traditional preparation-featuring aged tamarind and raw mangoes-relies heavily on the natural sweetness and aroma of Korameenu. Many families even let the curry rest overnight to further deepen the flavours. Yet, the onus now falls on homes rather than hotels to preserve the culinary legacy.
Adding to the cultural impact is the diminishing experience for visitors. Nellore, long lauded for exporting its fish delicacies and food specialists to other states--including Delhi--now risks losing its reputation as travellers frequently return home without tasting the iconic dish.
Fishermen and locals recall how the fish used to be widely available during the monsoon season in various canals. Elderly villagers even claim that Korrameenu fish curry helps cure asthma.
“Korameenu thrives in muddy waters and is extremely difficult to farm naturally. Only in a few freshwater pits in Buchi and Sangam mandals the species is being raised, but water conditions in most areas are not suitable,” said an official from the Fisheries department.
Traditionally, experienced fishermen would identify locations where Korameenu could be found and manually scoop them from the mud. However, with drying water sources and rising pollution, even this practice is becoming unsustainable.