A new page: Reviving a piece of history

Nagarabastikere, a hamlet in Uttara Kannada district, to be promoted as a cultural hotspot
Some of the most popular sites in Gerusoppa
Some of the most popular sites in Gerusoppa

NAGARABASTIKERE(UTTARA KANNADA): About 38 km from Honnavar in the thickets of the Western Ghats, a tiny road disappears into Gerusoppa, amidst the tall and well- grown thorny rattans, where even rainfall and sunlight struggle to penetrate. This green stretch leads to river Sharavathi whose wild current appears to be in a hurry to meet the Arabian Sea.

After crossing this mighty river, those passionate about history come  face to face with a piece of heaven on earth --- the historical Nagarabastikere --- capital of Gerusoppa rulers. A once prosperous kingdom, it is now lost amidst the withered leaves of the green canopy. 

Nestling amidst this heavily forested land, Gerusoppa has always enchanted people. It is home to art and architecture, a kingdom which quietly contributed to the glory of the then world’s richest  Vijayanagara Empire. It does not even bask in its glory, but rests far from the anthropogenic pressure in the jungles allowing its dilapidated stones and structures to tell the tales of its glorious history as a spice capital.

There is some ray of hope for this forgotten land. Considering its historical and archaeological significance, the department of tourism has decided to promote the place as a tourism hub. “We are planning a circuit of Banavasi, Chaturbasti and a few more Jain Bastis in Haliyal. We will provide basic amenities like water, toilet and refreshments,” says Purushottam, Deputy Director, Tourism.

However, he is well aware that the region being in the forest, it is not commercially viable. But he has a plan for it. “Nagarabastikere will be touted as an educational and cultural hotspot,” he says. Nagarabastikere was the capital of the Kingdom of Saluvas of Gerusoppa, The kings followed Jainism.  

The history of the Saluvas finds its reference from 1360 after the Vijayanagara kings who came to power in 1336 and expanded their kingdom up to the coastal region. Gerusoppa’s rulers served as their subordinates.

Under the Vijayanagara Empire, Gerusoppa ruled over a vast area. “They ruled over Tulunadu, (Udupi to Kundapur) and from Arabian Sea to Sagar in Shivamogga and Konkona and from Gangavalli River in the North bank to Goa. The later rulers were restricted from Bhatkal in the North to Gangavalli River in the South,” says Shyamsunder Gouda, a historian and archaeologist in Uttara Kannada.

The glory of Gerusoppa dynasty reached its peak when two sisters  -- Channadevi, who ruled from Haduvali near Bhatkal from 1443, and Channabhairadevi who ascended the throne in 1552. After the death of her sister, Channbhairadevi merged both the kingdoms. She created history by defending her kingdom against the Portuguese.

She was the third woman to do so after Rani Abakka and her own sister Channadevi. After the battle of Talikota in 1565, which wiped out the Vijayanagara Empire, Channabhairadevi ruled Gerusoppa as an independent ruler until her death in 1609. She is considered the longest reigning queen in Indian history -- ruled for 57 years. A war and economic strategist, the queen repulsed the attack of Portuguese twice.

“Channabhairadevi had gone to war against the Portuguese once in 1559 and again in 1570. She crushed the Portuguese maritime forces with her military strategy,” informs Shyamsunder Gouda. Nagarabastikere today beckons thousands of people. The most beautiful among them is the Chaturmukha Basthi constructed by Channabhairadevi.  

It is built on a huge platform in the Vijayanagara style with four entrances.  “The town which is in ruins today has been described as the most beautiful place by several medieval travellers and British officials,” says Shyamsunder. Accordingly in 1623, an Italian traveller, Pietro Della Vella, described it as the most beautiful place. In 1845, a Briitish Captain Newbold too made a similar comment.

Pepper Kingdom and Pepper queen
Channabhairadevi was known as the ‘Gersappa Rainha Da Pimenta’ by Portuguese meaning ‘The Pepper Queen’. This is because of her economic strategy as she controlled the production of pepper, fixed the rates and controlled its sale. Ships loaded with pepper and spices traded with western countries. Honnavar functioned as a harbour for internal trade, while Bhatkal was an intercontinental harbour.

Secular rulers
Despite following Jainism, the rulers of Gerusoppa were patrons of all religions. The Chaturbasti premises has temples of Veerabhadra, Ganapathi and other deities. A Hanuman temple, a dargah of Peer Saab and a Catholic church also exist here

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