Surendran A N checks his knife. It’s sharp. He places it in a wooden sheath and ties it around his waist. The senior most toddy tapper in the panchayat then gets ready and leaves his house located at Pampakuda, 33km away from Kochi, for work on a sunny afternoon. At 57, Surendran, who carried forward the job from his father Kuttan Narayanan, has a couple of more years to go before he hangs up his boots. He was keen on following in his father’s footsteps, while his brother got a job in the health department.
The recent controversy over Congress leader K Sudhakaran ridiculing CM Pinarayi Vijayan by calling him a toddy tapper’s son, has not affected Surendran at all. He still loves the job and proudly explains the skills required to nurture the inflorescence of Choondapana (solitary fish tail palm). “The job is taxing. However, it helped me build a house – though over 14 years – and educate my children, Vishnu and Veena,” he says. Vishnu got a temporary job in the Pollution Control Board after MCom and Veena is keen on following her brother after graduation.
Surendran is one of three tappers supplying palm toddy to the Areekal toddy shop nearby. His colleagues Saju and Raveendran helped their children build careers. It is evident none of their children will take up the profession. “A toddy tapper’s life revolves around palm trees which require your attention every single day for consistent yield,” says Surendran. His earnings depends on the amount of toddy he supplies to the shop. He collects the toddy by 8am, supplies it and then returns to the trees in the afternoon to season the inflorescence. This means spending more hours on the treetop.
The palm trees are loners in the vast spread of rubber plantations in the region. Climbing trees that can grow up to 15m is arduous and risky. Surendran suffered a fall in 2012, but was lucky to escape with a sprained knee. However, the change in circumstances and frequent accidents have reduced the number of toddy tappers from 36 till 2000 to 12 now. The calmness of Pappukavala Junction on the Pampakuda-Muvattupuzha Road perhaps explains the problem that grips the region.
Like other hilly terrains in the central range, Pampakuda too is known for rubber plantations. Most men either work in rubber plantations or engage in other manual labour. Decline in rubber price has reduced the earning capacity of people here over the years. The drought-like condition accentuated the problems as most plantations stopped work since January, says Thangappan, a rubber tapper as he enters the Vilangupara toddy shop.
Toddy shops on the way still bear signs of the hectic poster campaigning held during the local body election. Despite an upcoming assembly election, conversations in the shops in the region, considered a UDF stronghold, revolve around rubber and jobs.
The controversy that erupted over the candidature of former CPM member Sindhumol Jacob from Piravom on KC(M)’s ticket has not happened yet.A few rubber plantations have given way for pineapple cultivation as planters find it difficult to maintain the trees. The number of work days in rubber plantations and the attendance in toddy shops seem to have a direct connection.
“My shop used to be bustling with activity when there was enough work. I served tapioca, beef and fish with toddy. I discontinued it due to poor demand,” says M K Gopi, who has been managing the Memuri toddy shop for 35 years. Shops in the region down shutters early. Five of the toddy shops close by 7pm or sooner. The Arekkal waterfall, located in the middle of lush rubber plantations and forest, lies 1km from Surendran’s house. The area has just three shops – a bakery, a toddy shop and an eatery – all in one building.
Once in a while, tourists arrive in groups only to get disappointed at the sight of a dried-up waterfall. “They come here after seeing pictures of the waterfall on the internet. The fact is, we are struggling for drinking water now. The toddy business has plummeted and the eatery was shut a long ago,” says Binu Kumar, the manager of Areekal toddy shop.