Beena Kannan, CEO and lead designer of Seematti, is a trailblazing entrepreneur and a brand in her own right. Embodying her motto “I wear what I preach”, her passion for her craft is spectacular. Beena has achieved remarkable success in the fashion industry, historically dominated by patriarchal attitudes, through unwavering determination and perseverance. In a warm conversation with TNIE, Beena shares her inspirations and experiences. Excerpts
You entered the textile industry after graduating in the 1980s. Was it a planned move or did it just happen?
Accidental... It wasn’t planned at all. I was studious, and had I taken the academic route, I would’ve undoubtedly secured a merit seat in any reputed college in the country. All I wanted to do was study.
How did your entry into Seematti happen?
After I graduated, my father was not in favour of sending me for higher studies though I had very good marks. As for ‘what next?’ I didn’t have many options. Could I work at my father’s store? But during those days, women, especially from our caste, didn’t take up jobs. The world was very different then. It so happened that my father was looking for a secretary. So I asked him whether I could take up the post. And he said yes.
Looking back, how was that experience? Do you regret the decision?
I enjoyed working at the store. I was far better than anybody and everybody around. Things are in my control. In any other field... be it a doctor or anyone else... that wouldn’t have happened. I am a leader. I wouldn’t have done well in a group.
Today, the name Beena Kannan evokes the image of a strong and bold woman. However, that wasn’t always the case. How did this transformation occur?
That’s true. In the past, there was no Beena Kannan... I was either the daughter of V Thiruvenkitam Reddiar or the wife of Kannan. I required permission for every little thing. I wasn’t allowed to travel alone; my father would tell me to go with my husband, and my husband wouldn’t permit it either. In our community, women weren’t allowed to make decisions or take action. So, I was at my husband’s mercy.
Are you surprised by your transformation into a strong and bold woman?
I’ve always trusted my instincts and done what I believe is right for me. Even in challenging situations, like the Kochi Metro case, I remained confident in my decisions. My family has been supportive, and even when faced with criticism, I’ve never had to regret my choices. While some people may have blamed me, I’ve always remained steadfast in my convictions.
You’ve shared that your mother was disappointed when you were born a girl and she expressed her sadness to your grandfather. Did that realisation hurt you?
My mother would often mention it, saying that if she had a son, she would’ve had the freedom to go shopping. But I never dwelled on that. So that didn’t affect me.
Have you ever felt the urge to prove that a woman is just as capable as a man?
I went with the flow. Perhaps, after reaching my current position, I briefly thought about how far I’d come. But that was just a fleeting thought. I am an easy-going person.
You mentioned your father and husband’s encouragement. When did you realise you could manage independently?
During my husband’s eight-year battle with cancer, I fought tirelessly, knowing it was a losing battle. I’d cry all night. After my husband passed away, I told my father I was ready to travel without restrictions.
Confident women are often labelled as ‘arrogant’ in our society…
I remain unfazed by criticism. My children advise me to stay calm and composed. However, I’ve learnt that being too calm can lead to people taking advantage of you. Initially, I faced discouragement from shrewd traders and suppliers. They wove designs suited for Tamil Nadu and Andhra, not Kerala. Undeterred, I persisted, visiting weavers and godowns directly. Today, they respect me, and some even praise me. Dealers in Chennai, who once ridiculed me as egoistic, now appreciate my designs (laughs out).
How did that shift happen?
It happened gradually. But boldness was inherent in me. As I navigated challenging situations, I became more decisive and confident in my decision-making. I learnt to say ‘no’ when necessary. These traits are ingrained in my DNA, influenced by strong role models like my grandfather and father. I’ve always been a straightforward person, doing what I believe is right. I avoid taking the easy way out, as evidenced by my stand on the Kochi Metro issue.
The metro issue had grabbed headlines. What was it about? Sreedharan once said that Seematti was willing to give the land for free…
Yes, we were ready to give the land for free. But right from the outset, officials associated with the project seemed to be bent on a vendetta against me. They threatened me for one and a half years. I was reduced to tears by their harsh behaviour. When we went seeking approval for the new building, they refused permission citing various rules associated with the Indian Railways. We requested a car parking area under the Metro Rail. It was rejected. We were also denied entrance from MG Road. We didn’t get these 32 cents for free. The blood and sweat of my grandfather and father paid for it! The rules seem to have been written only for me. When it comes to others along the metro route, they don’t seem to exist! Now I am fighting for my rights in court.
What is the case?
The case is still going on. Kochi Metro is yet to pay compensation as per the new Land Acquisition Act. There are two cases in the civil court. I want justice. Even if I have to wait eight or 10 years for that, I will.
What’s the issue regarding the entrance?
When the metro route alignment was announced, we requested them to permit us to have an entrance from MG Road. Is there anything wrong in asking for an entrance to a building that had been existing for several years? But they did not give us approval. The state government needs to support people in cases like ours.
You weren’t allowed to construct a new building...
In 2013, when we sought permission to construct a new building, they couldn’t allow that because of the arrival of the metro. We then changed the blueprint to comlply with the objections they had raised. But look how they allowed others to build very close to the track.
How do you assess the fashion sensibility in Kerala compared to other states?
Honestly, it’s underwhelming. While some customers are open to our suggestions, others are resistant to change. Often, young women rely solely on makeup artists’ or stylists’ advice, resulting in purchases that don’t suit them. If customers followed our expert advice, they would make more informed purchase decisions.
Some say Malayalis dress up in a more subtle manner…
I’d say it’s repetitive. Malayalis tend to initially resist new styles, but once they accept them, they cling to them. Changes in their fashion preferences occur infrequently, about once every four or five years.
How do you stay current with evolving tastes and styles in this highly competitive sector?
I prioritise gauging customers’ requirements. Initially, I experimented with innovative designs, but soon discovered that Malayalis are hesitant to change. Convincing them proved challenging. So, about 30 years ago, I shifted my focus to meeting their expectations.
Do you find it difficult to manage customers from Kerala?
While it can be challenging to satisfy Malayalis at times, we’ve developed an understanding of their psyche and adapted our approach accordingly.
How do you sustain customers who are not receptive?
We cater to market demands. Our products are durable, reasonably priced, and unique. If you trust the Seematti brand, we’ll go the extra mile to ensure your satisfaction. While we may not be perfect, we strive to deliver our best. As the premier destination for silk sarees in Kerala, we enjoy a loyal customer base. I’m committed to being available for my customers, and their satisfaction remains my top priority.
With many stores focusing exclusively on fashion trends, do you think youngsters’ preferences are changing?
Changes occur every five years. I’ve observed fashion trends in various cities — Delhi’s fondness for stone-embellished clothing, Kolkata’s affinity for gota patti, and the Telugu community’s demand for innovative designs. However, we face a unique challenge in Kerala... we can make heavy sarees and lehengas but not even 10 Malayali customers would buy such designs.
Has the emergence of online businesses affected your operations?
I’ve never been overly concerned about online sales. Our focus lies in wedding collections, where we can offer a broader range of products than online platforms. We provide personalised services, including fittings and bespoke detailing, which online services can’t replicate. While online marketplace will undoubtedly claim a share of the market, we’re confident in our unique offerings and commitment to customer satisfaction.
Your 2013 advertisements are still widely referred to as timeless classics. What’s the marketing strategy behind creating such enduring ad campaigns?
For me, this industry is not just about generating revenue; it’s about ensuring customer satisfaction. I’m deeply committed to my customers, and I go the extra mile to meet their needs. For instance, I recall a customer from Kerala who wanted a Banarasi border saree for `20,000. I made it a point to arrange it for them. If you don’t prioritise customer satisfaction, you risk losing their loyalty.
Can you share your experience of appewaring in advertisements for your brand?
I’ve made appearances in a few advertisements, including an upcoming one. However, I don’t insist on being featured in ads for my brand. I only participate when the director specifically requests my involvement. In fact, I often ask them to exclude me from ad shoots, preferring to focus on other aspects of the business.
Traditional weavers seem to be struggling, with sales declining. Is their reluctance to move beyond traditional designs a contributing factor?
When I entered the industry in 1980, I would regularly visit weavers’ villages like Kuthampally and Balaramapuram, suggesting new designs. However, despite years of effort, I realised that it’s challenging to bring about change. It’s not productive to push for design innovation if they’re resistant to it.
How can we encourage weavers to adapt to changing trends and educate them about new designs?
It’s a difficult process. Even if we manage to convince them to create a new design, they might only produce it for a few years. Once the trend fades, they often revert to their traditional designs. If we approach them with a new design, they’re unlikely to be receptive. This cycle makes it challenging to drive innovation and change.
Along with Seematti, the Beena Kannan brand too has evolved. How has that experience been?
The Beena Kannan brand has been established and is currently located on the fifth floor of Seematti in Kochi. While both brands coexist, the Beena Kannan brand has experienced slightly more growth. Essentially, Beena Kannan is an extension of Seematti. My personal approach involves planning ahead, sometimes requiring adjustments along the way. My capacity and productivity levels are notably higher, allowing me to effectively manage both brands.
Do you feel that your full potential hasn’t been utilised by people here?
I’d say that my capabilities haven’t been fully tapped into so far.
Do you have plans to expand your business beyond Kerala?
To do that, I’d have to relocate and start anew. However, I don’t have the financial resources to make that happen, at least not with my current legitimate income. I’ve built my business on honest earnings, and I’m not willing to compromise on that.
Are you adopting AI technology?
Every field is using AI. We have brought it into fashion too. We have created a model named Isha Ravi. For the first time in the world, an AI model is representing a fashion brand. She can model dresses for customers and interact with them. More features will be added to Isha.
How is Beena Kannan as a leader? Are you inclined to micro-manage everything or delegate responsibilities to the people you have trained for the past 20 years?
I don’t micro-manage. When it comes to the day-to-day affairs of the store, I let those responsible for the tasks do their jobs. I do listen and pay heed when they come and tell me how things are going once in a while.
Who inspired you the most among your family members?
My father has been my greatest inspiration. To some extent, my grandfather also played a significant role. Additionally, my husband has been a tremendous support throughout my journey. From my father, I learnt to be practical and handle the financial aspects of the business. He was my guide and mentor. My husband, on the other hand, has always encouraged me to pursue my passions without any restrictions.
You’ve spoken fondly of your father and husband, but what about your mother?
Interestingly, my relationship with my mother was quite tumultuous. We would often argue and bicker. However, despite our differences, she loved me deeply. I recall her calling me at least three times a day. It wasn’t until after she passed away that I truly realised the significance of her presence in my life.
Many of your employees are from outside Kerala. Why is that?
Do you have any issues with how I run my business (laughs)? We do have Malayali staff, and I maintain a good balance with local women as well.
You had once said that it was an honour to share the dais with the PM…
Yes, why not? If a person is ruling the country properly, why not acknowledge it? I used to appreciate Indira Gandhi. But now I think I might have been wrong. My only wish is to see my country governed well.
How did that come about?
I shared the dais with PM Modi because I was invited.
Were you making a political statement?
I am not into politics.
You said that you attended the function because you were invited. Didn’t you realise that it might have political implications?
Do I look like a fool? If there are any implications, I know how to deal with them. My intentions are very straightforward. I have no crooked ways. So I’m not bothered.
As a businesswoman who has shattered gender stereotypes and succeeded in a male-dominated industry, what’s your take on feminism?
I believe feminism has been misinterpreted and mishandled. My approach is to respect everyone for whom they are, regardless of their background or identity.
You’ve also challenged the stereotype regarding women of a certain age group. What message would you like to share with women in that age group?
Age is just a number. Personally, I still feel like I’m in my 20s! I enjoy spending time with my grandchild, but I also prioritise maintaining a youthful mindset. When you stay mentally agile, your body follows suit. So, there’s no need to worry about ageing — just live life to the fullest!
Do you have a succession plan in place?
My children are actively involved in the business and are gradually learning its intricacies. I’m impressed with their progress, as they develop their skills independently. It’s reassuring to see them take charge, and I’m pleased to receive fewer phone calls now.
You’re also passionate about fitness. Can you tell us about that aspect of your life?
Fitness is essential for living a healthy life. It’s a physical world, and having a fit body is crucial for a sharp mind. Both physical and mental well-being are vital, and fitness plays a significant role in achieving that balance.
We understand you encountered some challenges after consulting a dietitian a few years ago...
A while back I wanted to lose some weight and reached out to a diet team. They advised me to eliminate nuts, paneer, and similar foods, but I wasn’t prepared for my questions to be dismissed. Their primary focus was on weight loss, which ultimately wasn’t good for my health. Avoiding protein can have negative effects on your well-being. It felt like they were more interested in profit than my health.
TNIE team: Kiran Prakash, Cithara Paul, Rajesh Abraham, Rajesh Ravi, Anu Kuruvilla, Mahima Anna Jacob, Anna Jose, Harikrishna B,T P Sooraj (photos), Pranav V P (video)