KOTTAYAM: India’s bakery industry has influenced global culinary tastes with its diverse, delectable range. The sector continues to adapt to evolving consumer preferences, advances in technology and shift in cultural influences shift.
In the bustling baked goods aisles, consumers are no longer seeking sustenance, but unique experiences that tantalise taste buds and cater to health-conscious lifestyles.
To connoisseurs seeking crispy Jerusalem bagel, traditional Italian schiacciata con l’uva, authentic Danish pastry, flaky French bread specialties such as black forest croissants and baguettes, or crusty European sourdough, a Malayali has become somewhat of a household name. Now based in Bengaluru, Avin Thaliath has made a significant impact in the industry, becoming a quintessential figure with his innovative creations.
Thaliath’s journey from a young boy in Kochi to a globally recognised patissier, as a pastry chef is also known, has been remarkable, especially considering that he embarked on his path in the late 1990s when pursuing a career in hotel management.
“After completing my bachelor’s degree in hotel management in Bengaluru, I received a scholarship to study in France, which was a turning point. It was during the time spent working in various departments that I uncovered my passion for baking,” says Thaliath.
With nearly two decades of experience in the baking industry, Thaliath emphasises the abundant opportunities in the rapidly growing sector.
“There are numerous challenges and opportunities within the sector. Often the approach turns to identifying ways to transform challenges into opportunities. For instance, the demand for gluten-free products initially appeared as a challenge.
However, this was addressed by creating a dedicated section for gluten-free, sugar-free, lactose intolerant products, and more. Embracing these challenges pushes one to think outside of our comfort zone,” he points out.
In order to prepare the younger generation to tap the opportunities in a constantly evolving industry, Thaliath established Levonne Academy in Bengaluru, the first-of-its-kind institution in India dedicated to teaching baking and pastry skills.
“From the beginning, our vision was to make baking and pastry mainstream career options in India. Back then, baking was often viewed as a fallback for those who didn’t do well academically. We wanted to change this perception and help society see baking and pastry arts as respectable and viable career paths,” he said.
The academy also coaches the Indian team for the WorldSkills competition. “WorldSkills is like the Olympics for vocational skills, and India only became a member in 2008. We report directly to the ministry of skills and the prime minister’s office. It’s been a great journey promoting baking and pastry arts on this international platform,” he said.
Thaliath stresses that Kerala has had a strong influence on his career. Influenced by the tastes of the state, he offers a product called Thalassery chicken puff’ that employs local ingredients such as shallots and coconut milk.
“Kerala has a rich history in baking and pastry. When the Portuguese settled there, they introduced bread-making techniques, and local bakers adapted them using ingredients like toddy, which was the first fermenting agent used before the introduction of yeast. Kerala played a major role in shaping the way baking developed in India,” he adds.
In an attempt to combine the science, history, and recipes of baking, Thaliath recently wrote a book titled A Baker’s Journey Around the World.
“It’s unique because it addresses baking from three perspectives: anthropology (history), science, and art (recipes). It’s the first book of its kind to combine all three angles, and it took me 13 years to research and write the first volume,” he said.
Thaliath has five outlets in Bengaluru and two in Delhi.