THIRUVANANTHAPURAM: For Sarojini Amma, 86, one of the oldest traditional weavers from Nemom in Thiruvananthapuram, the craft is not just livelihood but a tradition passed down through generations. Despite her age and ailments, Sarojini turns up at the Travancore Textiles Handloom Weavers’ Industrial Co-operative Society, her workplace for decades, every day.
As poor wages and other issues keep younger generations away, elderly weavers are fighting the odds to keep Kerala’s traditional handloom industry alive. “I come here every day to do what I love. I have gotten slow, but I still possess the drive and hope to earn until my last day,” said Sarojini.
Kerala’s financial crisis has plunged the handloom industry into despair, with thousands of weavers getting their six-month wages recently, after a harrowing eight-month wait.
Onam market bleak
Things are looking bleak for traditional weavers and societies this Onam. “Last year, we generated around Rs 12 lakh during Onam. This year, we could raise just Rs 8 lakh so far,” said an office-bearer of the society. There are also fewer working days.
“We depend on the National Handloom Development Corporation Ltd to procure yarn at subsidised rates. There is often a supply delay, which reduces the number of working days. We also have to make payments in advance, which is impossible for many societies,” said the office-bearer.
Of 520 societies registered in Kerala, just 300 are operational. Weavers’ strength has also dwindled from 1.2 lakh in early 2000s. As per the data with the Directorate of Handloom and Textiles (DHT), just 25,000 traditional weavers are working under registered societies now. The annual turnover has dropped too.
“In 2017, the industry registered an annual turnover of around Rs 400 crore. Last year, it was less than Rs 100 crore. Without government support, it is hard for the industry to sustain itself as there is tight competition from the powerloom industry,” said a DHT official.
Thiruvananthapuram, Ernakulam and Kannur are the three main hubs of traditional handloom in Kerala.
Wage insufficient, payment slow
Delayed payments and insufficient minimum wage have crippled the industry. Many spinning mills downed shutters post pandemic, driving up the cost of yarn, the key raw material.
“Yarn cost increased by 100% after pandemic. Besides, cooperative societies have been brought under the income tax and GST. After agriculture, handloom is a key traditional industry in the country. Instead of protecting it, the Union and state governments are imposing taxes,” said T S Baby, president of Paravur Handloom Weavers Cooperative Society Ltd. He also alleged that the state is turning a blind eye to fake handloom products flooding the market.
Shinoj Kumar, president of Chirakkal Weavers Cooperative P&S Society Ltd in Kannur, said, “Our society was established in 1946 and employed around 300 traditional weavers. We have around 100 now. Youngsters are not taking it up due to poor wages. Other jobs offer Rs 1,000-Rs 2,000 per day, we can pay just Rs 400-Rs 500,” he said.
The government’s free school uniform scheme has also not helped. Shinoj said the government was paying 2017 rates for the scheme, despite the rise in the cost of raw materials.
Branding, marketing inadequate
DHT’s efforts to modernise the product line and market traditional handloom weavers globally is yet to gain momentum due to fund crunch. “Our plan was to tie up with the Institute of Fashion Technology to bring up a new line of handloom products that are more attractive and appealing. The plan was to impart three-month training with a stipend for master weavers. However, the initiative has become very expensive. We are working out a plan to execute it,” said a DHT official.
The official said none of the initiatives in the pipeline are gathering steam due to financial crisis. “We are planning to introduce a website to sell handloom products globally. Hopefully, we will implement all this in the near future,” said the official.
