Kadamattom Church: A ‘magical’ melting pot of history, folklore and art

Having a unique place in the annals of history, this church houses the mortal remains of the legendary Kadamattathu Kathanar who was believed to possess supernatural powers
St George Orthodox Church, Kadamattom, in Ernakulam
St George Orthodox Church, Kadamattom, in ErnakulamA Sanesh
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It is the smell of burning candles and incense floating with the gentle breeze that greets you as you slowly climb the stone steps of the hillock leading to the historic Kadamattom St George Orthodox Church along NH 85 near Kolenchery. At the summit, what strikes you is the nadakasala or portico reminiscent of Hindu temples and it harmoniously sits next to the Baroque facade of the church.

Having a unique place in the annals of history, this church houses the mortal remains of the legendary Kadamattathu Kathanar who was believed to possess supernatural powers. Besides its association with the wizard priest, this church is known for its magnificent centuries-old murals and a Persian stone cross with Pahlavi inscriptions.

A mural at the church
A mural at the churchA Sanesh

Step inside the church and one’s eyes immediately rest on the beautiful barrel-vault above the sanctuary, which sports small panels exquisitely painted with floral designs. Hidden behind the main altar is a visual treasure – a rare painting of St George slaying a dragon.

Flanking the sanctuary are two side altars. The one on the left has a wooden reredos with a panel depicting the Virgin Mary and behind it hides a painting showing St Thomas touching the Risen Jesus. Behind the reredos on the right altar is a mural of the Resurrection.

Artist V M Jijulal painting the mural of St George
Artist V M Jijulal painting the mural of St GeorgeA Sanesh

The paintings, which had faded over the centuries, were painstakingly redone by mural conservationist V M Jijulal and his six-member team as part of the renovation of the church. “We used imported Italian pigment to restore the paintings, including the one depicting the Baptism of Christ on the right wall,” says Jijulal, adding that it took five months to retouch all the frescoes.

He says they also painted two new murals of the Virgin and Mar Abo, the saintly bishop who established this church in the 9th century, above the side altars. “We also recreated the painting of St George on the wall above the main entrance as the original mural is not visible to believers because it is behind the main altar,” Jijulal smiles.

The church is a must-visit destination for art and heritage lovers
The church is a must-visit destination for art and heritage loversA Sanesh

Orient meets the Occident

Kadamattom Church joins the ranks of historic Christian places of worship which boast remnants of the Kerala architectural style from the pre-colonial era. According to Kochi-based Conservation Architect Rakhi Mariam Johnson, this church blends European and traditional Kerala architecture.

“Like many old Kerala churches, here you can find a Vernacular Kerala church with a European facade in Renaissance, Mannerist and Baroque styles brought by Portuguese missionaries,” she says.

One can safely say that based on historical records, the original Kadamattom Church, probably built of wood in the Kerala style, was rebuilt using stone and mortar during the Portuguese colonial period.

According to Fr Sunny Varghese, the vicar, the roof, ceiling and interior of the church were restored as part of the three-year renovation project spearheaded by Swiss architect Karl Damschen. “It was done without affecting the antiquity of the structure and almost 3,000 cubic metres of wood were needed to restore the roof and ceiling,” he says.

Kadamattathu Kathanar
Kadamattathu KathanarSpecial arrangement

The miracle-working Kadamattathu Kathanar

All throughout the day, one can spot a steady stream of pilgrims, many of them non-Christians, to Kadamattom Church. They all come to the tomb of Kadamattathu Poulose Kathanar in front of the altar on the left, seeking solace from their various afflictions.

People believe that he is a powerful intercessor who can work miracles. Though there aren’t any historical records about this priest who used his magical powers to fight the powers of darkness, there are legends aplenty. It is said that he was born in this village in the 9th century to a poor couple.

After his father died, the young Poulose was cared for by his mother and he became a disciple of Bishop Mar Abo who came to Kadamattom from Nineveh in what is now Iraq. It was from this holy prelate that Poulose learnt Syriac, the Bible and the Liturgy before being ordained a deacon.

According to legend, one day, the young deacon was abducted by tribals and taken hostage. While in captivity, he was initiated into the world of the occult. After several years in their custody, Poulose managed to escape and return to Mar Abo who ordained him a priest and appointed him the vicar of Kadamattom.

The Persian Cross on the sanctuary wall marks the location of Mar Abo’s relic
The Persian Cross on the sanctuary wall marks the location of Mar Abo’s relicA Sanesh

The prelate then went to Thevalakkara near Kollam where he spent the rest of his days. His tomb in the Martha Mariam Church attracts devotees even today. Legends say that Fr Poulose had promised the bishop that he would use his supernatural powers for the common good.

The ‘Aithihyamala’, which chronicles the legends of Kerala, contains tales of the Kathanar’s exploits involving the subjugation of bloodthirsty vampires, and manifestation of supernatural feats. It is also believed that the priest brought the right arm of Mar Abo from Thevalakkara and placed it in the sanctuary wall of this church.

Painting of Mar Abo, the mentor of Kadamattathu Kathanar
Painting of Mar Abo, the mentor of Kadamattathu Kathanar A Sanesh

Blurring religious boundaries

At Kadamattom Church, the boundary between folk religion and Christianity often gets blurred. Often, one can witness folk rituals to propitiate Kadamattathu Kathanar being performed on the premises of the adjacent Poyedam Chapel. It stands on the plot where the Kathanar’s house once stood and the centre of attraction here is the Pathalakinar (well of the underworld).

“It is believed that the wizard-priest used to travel to the netherworld through this well,” explains Thampi B K, the sacristan of Kadamattom Church.

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