Since its launch in 2013, Pranaah, a fashion label by actor Poornima Indrajith, has been making waves, and this year was no exception. One of its outfits — a Kerala handloom ensemble — was worn by Ananya Shanbhag for the biggest stage in Hollywood, the Oscars red carpet.
Following this milestone, Poornima sits down with TNIE for a quick chat about this success, the creative journey, Kerala’s handloom industry, and her upcoming projects.
What inspired your design for Ananya at the Oscars?
In Pranaah, I work primarily in handlooms. I try to develop new concepts, introduce new patterns in the weaving process and make wearable fashion. When I work on red carpet looks, my goal is to represent the handloom while making sure the person wearing it feels confident. It should complement their age, the occasion, and the moment, making it memorable for them.
Most of the time, this happens through discussions with the client. But in Ananya’s case, she completely entrusted me with the process. So, I gave her multiple options, showing different types of weaves within the handloom and different designs and patterns within kasavu itself. She was pleased with my offerings.
But since I was styling her, my wish was to bring in a contemporary approach. That’s why I used a headset because she is a Bharatanatyam dancer, and I wanted that element to come in. The way we dress is connected to what we believe in, our values, morals, and even how we dream of representing ourselves. I wanted to help her bring that out.
Also, she needed to both look her age and ‘international’ at the event. So, instead of a regular skirt, I used a 100 per cent cotton fabric, but with the feel and flow of satin. Most handloom fabrics are light and suited for daily wear. But for evening wear, the fabric needs to have structure. So, we made the necessary changes and developed a new fabric. The whole outfit was made in that.
How do you feel now that the outfit is getting recognition from all quarters?
I felt very happy and supported, but above all, I felt a huge sense of responsibility.
Since handloom is deeply tied to our heritage and industry, it makes us feel even more accountable. I see this as both acceptance and responsibility, and I believe in moving forward with that.
How do you see the handloom industry in fashion today?
Conversations are happening, and so are efforts, especially at the national level. In Kerala, however, very few designers work completely with handloom.
I didn’t study textile design and my knowledge comes from firsthand experiences, travelling, spending days with weavers, and learning directly from them. What I learned there, I later tried to put into practice.
More individuals should step into the field, understand the craft, and contribute. It’s not just about wearing a handloom; it’s about actively participating in the industry. It is challenging. But I believe a change is coming. The new generation is very talented.
How do you come up with new concepts like your latest collection, Baalyaam?
In today’s climate, pure cotton is the best choice. It’s hard to step outside in anything else. And comfort is the priority in clothing. My approach is to make handloom both comfortable and fashionable. I seek to align it with modern trends.
Baalyaam has unisex shirts because today, gender fluidity is a reality. The design features hand-sketched patterns inspired by childhood memories brought to life through machine embroidery. The entire collection is made from handloom mundu.
What are your upcoming film projects?
I have worked on two Hindi series for OTT, both set to release this year on Netflix. One of them is Akka, a story about gangster queens, written and directed by Dharmaraj Shetty. I also worked on Kaala Paani, and its second season is coming soon on Netflix.
In Malayalam, I’m working on a film produced by Shane Nigam. It’s set in Palakkad, and the shoot is ongoing.