Thiruvananthapuram considers Attukal Pongala its cultural landmark. True to tradition, this year’s festival was as grand as ever. The festivities began 10 days ago at the temple, with crowds until 1am on most days.
The legend of the temple is contested, with some believing the deity to be Kannagi, the fiery Tamil heroine who brought down the Pandya kingdom. Others contend that the deity is Bhadrakali.
The Thottampaattu, sung throughout 10 days of the festival, is considered an authentic source of the temple’s legend. And researchers believe the story of Bhadrakali was later adopted by Sangam litterateur Ilango Adigal.
Attukal has undergone several changes over time, largely due to the influence of social reformers such as Chattambi Swami, who brought an end to animal sacrifice at the temple.
It is also said that during his student days, poet Changampuzha Krishna Pillai visited the temple — then a simple shrine nestled amidst nature’s bounty. According to historian M G Sashibooshan, the tranquil setting is said to have awakened the poet in him.
A flourishing art scene
The festival also features a vibrant art scene that attracts artists from beyond the local community. One of the highlights this year was a Carnatic concert by Additional Director General of Police S Sreejith.
“It is heartening to see the growth of the temple space as an art hub,” says Latha Balachandran, who has been running the Gayatri School of Dance in the capital for 36 years. “Even people from abroad want to perform here,” she says.
The festival also sees singers and composers releasing albums during this period. “It was a long-standing wish of mine to do an album on the goddess as an offering,” says G K Venugopal, who produced the album Amme Devi.
The city transformed
On the day, the city transformed into a carnival space, with hearths stacked together, creating a fiery celebratory spirit. Even women from across the state took part in the event.
“I am from Kozhikode. It’s my first time here. It’s a surreal experience,” says Sajitha N, a school teacher.
For local women, it is a familiar tradition. “I have been offering Pongala since I was a little girl,” smiles Pattom resident Sreekala Sasidharan.
Those from the suburbs arrived days in advance to reserve spaces near the temple. However, those living in the city limits, but farther from the temple, now prefer to offer Pongala at their doorsteps.
With Attukal and its precincts bursting at the seams, local temples doubled up as divine stops, offering Pongala facilities for devotees. Organisations such as the Sathya Sai Seva Samiti, Vattiyoorkavu, assisted participants in the community ritual.
Local clubs and residents’ associations organise mass lunches and drinking water facilities. Shops, vendors’ groups, and autorickshaw drivers also played their bits.
This year’s consecration took place at 1.15pm, after which the women left their spaces. “Once here, you will be back again,” remarked a woman as she stacked earthen pots to return home.
— Aparna Nair