Some years ago, a chapter in a school textbook was about young Ivana who strayed from home into a nearby village. When asked who her mother was, she said her mother is the most beautiful woman in the world. A search began, but the one who came calling for the kid was far from her description. Beauty thus is deeply linked to love, the story conveyed.
The story and many like it came to readers in Kerala from what was once the Soviet Union, transporting them to idyllic Russian settings. They were loved, in a pure reflection of the fascination the average, book-lover Malayali had for that country.
This could be a reason why the Russian House, originally set up as Gorky Bhavan in Thiruvananthapuram 50 years ago, found a spot in the hearts of Malayalis. It became a landmark, where thinkers and writers congregated. Through it, Russia struck deep chords in the minds of Malayalis, its friendship warmed hearts, and its space voyages made the likes of Valentina Tereshkova and Yuri Gagarin household names.
Ambika B was one such who did her post graduation in Russian in 1973, inspired by her love for Russia. “I was very fascinated. I got to know of Russia through the several books published by the Mir Publications. It was heavily subsidised too then. Kerala looked up then to Russia as the home of an ideology it revered,” the 75-year-old says.
Years passed, and in the 1990s, Soviet Union disintegrated and Russia emerged. Gorky Bhavan, named after Maxim Gorky, was shut down. It opened later after 10 years, as the Russian Cultural Centre. Popularly called the Russian House, it offered activities that facilitated an exchange of culture and talents.
Sports training in gymnastics and chess, in which Russians have legendary expertise, are held regularly. For chess, the Alekhine club, named after the all-time great Alexander Aleksansrovich Alekhine, operates on the centre’s premises. “Right now, a summer camp is on. Also, we facilitate Russian classes for those interested, and are now trying to coach the bay watchers so that they could help Russian tourists,” says Ratheesh C Nair, once a member of the Gorky Bhavan and now the honorary consul and director of the Russian House.
“The compound also houses the honorary consulate, the first to be opened in Kerala. We intend to help travellers and Russian people who live in India (including the consultants at the Koodankulam nuclear power plant),” he says.
Celebrating history landmarks is also a focus for the Russian House. “We recently organised the 80th anniversary of Russia’s victory over Germany during World War II. It was aptly named Pobeda, which in Russian means victory. It was a reminder of the role Russia played in world history bringing fascism to its knees. We organised exhibitions, seminars, a war film festival, a motorcycle rally...” he says.
Kerala’s interest in Russia has seen a marked change, says Ratheesh. “The culture and its exchanges are more cherished now. There is also an inclination to explore the educational prospects that Russia offers,” Ratheesh says.
“Though we do inform about the educational prospects, the Russian House do not aid any commercial activity associated with the process and have even warned against unscrupulous middlemen. There are several government scholarships available which the students can avail themselves of,” Ratheesh says.
Thus, yesterday’s Gorky Bhavan and today’s Russian House, at the quaint turning by the Bakery Junction, is the city’s sought-after space even in its changed avtar. A bust of legendary Yuri Gagarin welcomes people at the entrance, in a stellar reminder of Russia’s grip on space research. Anniversaries linked to him bring many visitors, space enthusiasts especially, as space was another common ground where India met with Russia.
Russia’s expertise lies in gymnastics and chess, and sessions connected to these are hot favourites. “But there is also another sporting form from Russia that is gaining popularity in Kerala — Sambo, a form of wrestling. We thus try to bring Russia’s originals and strong points here,” says Ratheesh, adding the centre now plans to set up a library.
Russian House in the capital city is thus a fascinating reminder that the country and its culture has a home in a Keralite’s heart.