THRISSUR: Considered the gold capital of Kerala, there was a time when Thrissur hosted hundreds of traditional gold artisan units that sold finished ornaments to major retailers in South India. Soaring gold prices saw the industry undergo a transformation, with customers opting for lightweight jewellery over relatively bulky traditional ones.
Veppila usha, elakkathali, adukku thali, and kuzhal mothiram necklaces made here have for ages been among the most sought after gold ornaments. The exquisite craft of the artisans, known as thattans, made these pieces inevitable at weddings and other social and cultural gatherings.
With the passage of time, tastes have changed, forcing retailers to introduce more trendy, lightweight ornaments from states like Maharashtra. This has affected the livelihoods of local artisans. To improve their lot, gold jewellery manufacturers in the state now plan to form a grouping to make common facilities available for crafting ornaments based on market demand.
According to Sooraj T P, who has been an artisan for over four decades, “Earlier, customers used to approach artisans like me for creating pieces of jewellery in keeping with their budgets. They would have specific designs in mind and there used to be workers who were skilled enough to carry out the work under the guidance of chief artisans. These days, we design based on the requirements of retailers. Instead of varying designs and type of ornaments, units now concentrate on single products. Those who make earrings do not work on other ornaments. This helps speed up the process and ensure perfectly finished products,” Sooraj, of Chevoor, said.
“Earlier, only traditional artisans were able to make designs according to the prescribed weight. Nowadays, however, anybody who knows the process can churn them out. There are Italian moulds for making products. Many migrant labourers, mostly from West Bengal, have been moving to Kerala to pursue gold manufacturing for the last decade or more. It is also a fact that the younger generation of traditional artisans, who once called Thrissur home, have been seeking better options,” said A K Sabu, president of the Jewellery Manufacturers Association (Kerala).
With the price of gold rising continuously, people are turning to lightweight ornaments over traditional designs, he said.
Sabu added that currently ornaments of 18, 14 and nine karats are in high demand in Kerala as younger customers seek out ornaments that can be worn, compared with earlier generations which saw them as an investment.
“We are planning the consortium to allow all manufacturers to make use of modern machinery and help sustain the industry. The project is expected to cost around `18 crore and Central government funds are assured. Once it becomes a reality, it will act as a boost to the gold-manufacturing sector in the state,” Sabu said.
According to a rough estimate, more than 20,000 labourers are directly involved in the sector in the state, with many more benefitting from it. While most of the units are based in Thrissur district, Kozhikode and Malappuram also enjoy a notable presence.