BARGARH: As the chariots roll down the Grand Road in Puri and other parts of Odisha during Rath Yatra, the nondescript village of Ghens in Bargarh district eagerly looks forward to something more than the divine festival.
Here, spirituality is served with a side of spice. Alongside the festivities, villagers and visitors alike queue up for a taste of the iconic ‘Raag Chana Ghugni’ - spicy yellow pea curry - a humble delicacy prepared and sold by none other than Koshali poet and Padma Shri Haldhar Nag.
Clad in his signature white dhoti, Nag sets up a modest stall near his Kabi Kutira during the Rath Yatra. The scene is simple: An earthen stove, steel vessels, and the fragrance of ground masalas. But the emotion behind it is profound. As the aroma of his hand-cooked Raag Chana fills the lanes, devotees stop by not just for a meal, but for a memory.
What surprises many outsiders is that the man behind the ladle is Nag, who was honoured with the Padma Shri in 2016 by then president Pranab Mukherjee for his literary contribution to Sambalpuri literature. Yet, for villagers of Ghens, this scene is familiar. Decades ago when Nag had no means to support his family financially, he began selling Raag Chana to survive. And alongside stirring the curry, he also stirred hearts with his poetry.
Locals claim there’s something magical about the blend; perhaps it is the poet’s closely guarded secret. However, Nag laughs it off. “There is no secret. It’s just a desi recipe passed down through experience and instinct. I use a few hand-pounded masalas, fresh turmeric, and rustic cooking methods.
There’s no artificial twist, no commercial flavour, just raw authenticity. I have been preparing it since 1972. Earlier, I used to sell it every day. Then eventually, I decided to sell it only on Rath Yatra, symbolically. Whatever it is, it keeps people coming back, year after year,” the 75-year-old poet told TNIE.
But fame hasn’t changed the essence of the man. Nag said, “It’s not about money. It’s a reminder of who I am. Poetry gave me wings, but this is my ground. Before I became famous as a poet, I was known for this curry. Now people call me Padma Shri Haldhar, but my identity hasn’t changed. I’m still Haldhar. Recognition is enough. The love people give me, the honour from the government - that is my wealth.”
Despite receiving invitations to attend literary festivals or deliver speeches during Rath Yatra, Nag cancels these commitments to be in Ghens. “People crave my curry during this time. How can I disappoint them? I prepare 15-20 kg of Raag Chana every year. Earlier, I used to sit the whole day selling it. Now, it gets over within a few hours after the festival begins,” he said.