There has been a large decline in the number of handloom weavers in India. While the first All India Handloom Census (1987–1988) indicated there were 67 lakh handloom weavers and allied workers in the country, the fourth census (2019–2020) showed that the number had dropped to 35 lakh. A critical factor behind the decline is lower wages.
According to the fourth census, 66.3% of weaver households earn less than Rs 5,000 a month. Lower wages and the labour-intensive nature of the handloom industry discouraged the younger generation from working in it and encouraged experienced weavers to move out. The Indian Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises also indicated that rapid technology development, deficient working capital, low productivity and globalisation are among the challenges facing the industry.
Therefore, to economically support traditional handloom weavers and revive the traditional industry, the government has encouraged its staff to wear handloom clothes to work twice a week from 2021. However, encouraging sales of handloom products may not be enough to address weavers’ woes.
First, the government should examine why handloom products sell poorly in the domestic market. In 2022, the official sales website of Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society Limited (Co-optex) indicated that the price of a handloom cotton saree started at Rs 1,037. Conversely, powerloom sarees are available on e-commerce websites from Rs 200. Therefore, consumers who expect to buy clothes at lower prices are not willing to buy handloom products. Also, some consumers complain that handloom designs are not “modern” while others say they prefer powerloom products because they are easier to wash.
Second, those who do not buy handloom products do not have good knowledge of traditional handloom. Ananita Bindra, in her project ‘Consumer Perception for Handloom Sector’ (2017) in Mumbai, noted that non-buyers do not even know what handloom is. This lack of awareness among consumers is a barrier to sales. How would non-buyers be able to tell the difference between handloom and powerloom products? More so, because powerloom products imitate handloom designs. The state government’s efforts to support weavers might be stymied if employees buy power loom instead of handloom products.
Third, the state government should learn from how similar initiatives taken up by other states fared. In 2016, Telangana Minister KT Rama Rao encouraged government officials, students and public representatives to wear handloom products at least once a week. Initially, the movement was supported and there was a sudden increase in sales. But, within two years, the support waned.
In 2020, the Maharashtra government restricted state employees from wearing jeans, T-shirts and slippers, instead encouraging them to wear Khadi clothes to work once a week. Karnataka, Bihar, Uttarakhand, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Himachal Pradesh have also made similar moves. In 2021, Kerala minister P Rajeeve encouraged government employees to wear handloom products on Saturdays, and later every Wednesday. However, the initiative did not flourish, as some state government employees viewed the dress code as an infringement on their individual rights and freedom.
While TN’s handloom weavers have welcomed the government’s efforts, a better way of supporting them would be to address the issues at their end rather than trying to boost sales. To this end, traditional weavers must be encouraged to explore new designs and should be supported with better wages and subsidies. The marketing of products must be improved and products should be available at more affordable prices. Efforts in that direction will benefit poor handloom weavers and uplift the traditional industry.
Explore new designs
Traditional weavers must be encouraged to explore new designs and should be supported with better wages and subsidies. The marketing of products must be improved and products should be available at more affordable prices.
Footnote is a weekly column that discusses issues relating to Tamil Nadu
Prasanna P is an ICSSR Doctoral Fellow pursuing his Ph.D. in history at Bharathidasan University, Tiruchy Dr Asokan T is an associate professor and Head of the Department of History at Bharathidasan University