SALEM: Delays in warp distribution have left hundreds of handloom weavers in Salem without work for months, raising concerns over irregular supply of raw materials and its impact on livelihoods. Warp, the lengthwise yarn stretched on a loom over which the weft is interlaced, is the primary input for weaving, and its short supply has brought production in many units to a standstill.
Salem, which has a significant number of handloom units in the state, with 6,549 looms and 64 cooperative societies, has over 22,000 registered members, of whom only 4,670 are currently active. The district, known for its silk and cotton weaving heritage, now faces a slowdown as many looms remain idle due to irregular raw material supply.
The cooperative societies of handlooms procure raw, unbleached and uncoloured silk fabric from TANSILK — the Tamil Nadu Co-operative Silk Producers' Federation Limited — and zari (jarigai) from Tamil Nadu Zari Limited, which are then distributed to members for weaving.
S Sekar, a member of Salem Silk Weavers Cooperative Society, said he last received warp in May and has not received any since. "For a year, we get only about three warps. From one warp, we can earn up to Rs 13,000, which means our annual income is limited to around Rs 40,000," he said.
Sekar added that weaving on a handloom requires at least two people, who are usually family members, making the effective earnings per person even lower. "For each warp, the income is around Rs 10,000 for two weavers.
The months we don't receive warp, we sit idle, with no work or income," he said. "We have to pay rent for the loom shed whether we get work or not. There are family and medical expenses. We're not asking for luxury, just steady work," he added, noting that pressing the pedals over 10,000 times a day causes severe musculoskeletal pain and fatigue.
V Sreenivasan, another weaver, said income from weaving is irregular and inadequate. "From one warp, we can make about 10 dhotis. It takes three days for one dhoti, and our wage is roughly Rs 1,000 per dhoti. Even with subsidies, we earn only Rs 12,000 - Rs 13,000, and that too not regular," he said, adding, "Many are shifting to other professions, but older weavers who've been in this for decades have nowhere else to go."
R. Sreedharan, Deputy Director of Handlooms, Salem , said the department and cooperative societies were doing their best to distribute warp but cited stock accumulation as a major obstacle. "We give warp, they weave and return dhotis; however, when the stock doesn't move, we can't give new orders. The dhotis turn yellowish if stored too long, and we cannot keep them indefinitely," he said.
“The department is boosting sales through exhibitions, showrooms, and private partnerships. But production without sales doesn't work. We are trying to create more job opportunities, but competition from powerlooms is high. A pure silk dhoti with gold zari from our cooperatives costs around Rs 10,000, while private manufacturers sell similar ones for Rs 5,000 without following purity norms," he said.
Despite these efforts, weavers say the situation remains tough. With months passing without raw materials or income, many families that once formed the backbone of Salem's handloom identity now struggle to keep their looms and livelihoods running.