SALEM: Salem's famous Venpattu continues to bring little relief to its weavers despite holding a Geographical Indication (GI) tag since 2008 and receiving the Indian Handloom Brand Certificate in 2015.
The handwoven silk fabric, used to make traditional veshti, shirts, and sarees, is crafted exclusively in Salem, making it unique for its fine texture, sheen, and durability. The yarn for Venpattu is sourced from TANSILK, the Tamil Nadu Co-operative Silk Producers' Federation, in Kancheepuram, which supplies high-quality silk to weavers across the state.
Production is concentrated in areas such as Ammapet and Ponnamapet for dhotis and shirts, and Kondalampatti for sarees. Most weavers belong to the Sowrashtra community, and about half of them are women.
A single Venpattu dhoti takes nearly two-three days to weave, and a skilled weaver can produce only 10 dhotis a month, earning around Rs 10,000 leaving them in a state of despair.
Each artisan typically has a handloom at home, with a main weaver assisted by a family member - often a husband and wife team - who help in preparing and winding the silk threads.
The intricate fabric relies on a carefully prepared warp, the lengthwise threads stretched on the loom, which must be tied and arranged by hand before weaving begins. This painstaking process ensures the strength, smoothness, and quality that make Venpattu so special.
V Devarajan, a member of the Salem Silk Weavers Cooperative Society, said there are nearly 5,000 weavers currently producing Venpattu, but the number of weavers has reduced by 50 percent since they could not make the ends meet. He also added, the production has also been cut to half of what it was before.
"The GI tag we received in 2008 brought recognition but has not boosted sales," he said.
Seasonal changes and rising costs further affect production. About 20 percent of Venpattu products are sent to Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Delhi, and Mumbai. Raw silk now costs Rs 6,000 per kg, up from Rs 3,500 last year, reducing profit margins. In addition, the spread of powerloom products has made handloom venpattu less competitive, though only handloom pieces are considered authentic, the weavers say.
MBK Rajan, involved in production and sales, explained that the price of Venpattu products depends on the lace (jarigai) used, with gold, silver, or copper threads increasing the cost. "Prices range from Rs 4,000 to Rs 20,000 depending on the type of lace," he said. He also added that bulk orders cannot be fulfilled with the current number of handloom units and weavers, so many of these orders are automatically produced through powerlooms.
To help weavers sustain their livelihoods, former president of Salem Kondalampatti Handloom Textile Manufacturers, K Balaraman, said, "For years, we have been demanding GST relief for handloom venpattu production to bridge the gap between cost and income."
Despite its recognition and historical significance, Venpattu weaving remains a struggle for Salem's artisans, who continue to rely on traditional skills in a market dominated by mechanised alternatives.