History stretches itself into eternity. It’s indestructibility makes it immortal. Its continuum inevitably reminds us of its past glory, just like it is with the Grand Trunk Road, India’s first highway. Dhaba–The Claridges values that legacy. If there is one thing this pioneer in North Indian highway dining has learnt in the last three decades, it’s certainly the value of legacy. In celebration of its 30 years, Dhaba is paying tribute to the historic presence of this road, also called Sadak-e-azam in the 16th century.
Still a busy trade route, its identity remains the many dhabas that dot its fringes. “Along the massive length of the road, the iconic roadside eateries have served weary traders, colonial officers, freedom fighters and now, still standing, they provide the same food to present day travellers,” says Sahil Sabhlok, Executive Chef at The Claridges New Delhi. He adds, “These dhabas are a reflection of the province they are situated in, providing glimpses into the nuances of the cuisine of the area.” Therefore, to celebrate three decades of the restaurant, guests are being taken through a historic journey of food.
It’s divided into three phases—Kolkata to Allahabad (till July 31), Allahabad to Delhi (August 12-21), and Delhi to Amritsar (September 2-11)—with each marked by a characteristic regional flair.
The first phase takes one to the beginning of GT Road, to Kolkata, where traditional Maccher Jhol and Mishti Doi are staples. You take a stop to try Bihar’s famous Litti Chokha, and then move through the railway colonies of Mughal sarais, and then traverse through the chaos typical of Benaras. You can get your fill of chaats, tikkis and other fried food. Allahabad, the next stop, is decidedly Mughlai in its flavours. “Phase two takes you through Kanpur, where sweet aromas emanating from the halwai fill the early morning air. Thousands of tourists and kanpuriyas throng the streets for varieties of chaats, kachoris and subzis. Further ahead on the road lies erstwhile capital of the Mughal Empire, Agra. Don’t forget to have the jalebis. Move to Delhi and spicy street food awaits you; chaats, dumplings and wraps being the highlight,” he says with a smile.
Finally, Karnal marks the beginning of the final phase. Go through the cuisines of Punjab, some popular ones being Butter Chicken, Dal Makhani, Amritsari Aloo Wadi, Lawrence Road Ke Tikke, Tandoori Aloo, butter naans and more. “From serving tarka dal, chicken fry, paranthas and tandoori roti centuries ago, to now offering a diversity in flavours of different cities, the 2,500 km highway has come a long way and you could travel the entire distance in just a few hours.