Big bites of modernism

Ensconced in the bustling GK-II M Block Market is Whistling Duck (WD House), a fine-dining restaurant that celebrates Indian modernism.
Orange Creme Brulee
Orange Creme Brulee

Ensconced in the bustling GK-II M Block Market is W.D. House, a fine- dining restaurant that celebrates Indian modernism. Spread across five verticals, the building houses a kitchen, an all-day club and a performance space.

A look at the monochromatic décor, Le Corbusier- inspired chairs, timeless table arrangement and black and white photos of a bygone Connaught Place is enough for quick reminiscence of 40s and 50s. “Our primary reference points were iconic institutions, such as India International Centre and Triveni Kala Sangam. The restaurant is about regional Indian food with references from global cuisines,” says the founder, Ambar Mehrorta, who first launched the restaurant in Chandigarh.

By charting the terrains of India, Southeast Asia and Europe, the menu manifests into a culinary atlas. For the slightly perplexing menu, we had Chef Richa Johri’s worldly knowledge on spices and local vegetables. The first sip of the rather unusual Rhododendron Squash mixed with celery and black salt reminded me of brews from hill stations in the Himalayan.

An unorthodox choice would be tasting the deep fried Karela Rings garnished in mango dressing, with shallots, cucumber slices and tomatoes. The luscious goat ribs of Kashmiri Tabak Maaz garnished with onions and plum and ginger chutney had a piquant flavour. The Roasted Pumpkin Soup accompanied by curry leaf butter was soothing. The Thai Kaeng Kua Phak Gai and Rice was palatable, but had a mild odour. The Gooey Orange Creme Brulee was great.

The servings are generously portioned and the little surprise is the glossary at the end of the menu in a sarkari-styled folder, which helps increase one’s food vocabulary bank. With jazz playing in the background, the pastel palette of the space, natural sun rays and nudging greens allow us to cherish the moment to the fullest.

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