The sight, and presence, of Afghans in Delhi is a familiar one, stretching back to the 14th century and the rise and fall of dynasties including the Khaljis, Lodis, and Suris, who left their mountain fastness to start a new life in India. And while the area of their influence may have shrunk from the vast stretches Delhi Sultanate to a small colony in Delhi’s Lajpat Nagar, the community still soldiers on, thriving and prospering in a corner of the world they’ve made their own.
The latest influx of Afghan émigrés are people fleeing the more recent violence and turmoil of their homeland, and perhaps it’s only natural that so many of them decided to come to a place with which they’ve shared such a storied past. The area known as ‘Little Kabul’ or ‘Mini Afghanistan’ sprawls over a few streets of Lajpat Nagar and has, over time, become a bustling niche for members of the Afghan community, from settlers to visitors.
Indeed, given the large number of Afghans who visit India in search of relatively inexpensive and effective medical treatment, it’s not a stretch to see why Lajpat Nagar, situated as it is so close to some of the country’s best hospitals, makes for such a good spot for Little Kabul. There’s an even smaller community of Afghan restaurants and pharmacies situated bang opposite the hospitals at Saket for presumably similar reasons. Going back to Lajpat Nagar, it is again Afghan eateries and chemists that dominate the landscape, with shop fronts bearing signs in Urdu and Dari, along with the universal Hindi and English. And while we could wax eloquent of these embrocations and chemical correctives, we’d prefer to concentrate on the food.
It’s a commonly held belief that places of conflict also boast exceptional cuisine, and Afghan food does little to detract from this homily. Given the region’s harsh mountainous climate and the strenuous lives led by the natives, it’s small wonder that sustenance is as important as the flavour and so while Afghan food is naturally meat-heavy, it also relies much on dairy, rice, and grains. And yes, as clearly established by Rabindranath Tagore’s seminal work, Kabuliwalas love their nuts and dried fruits, especially pine nuts and dates, which are native to the region.
Grocery stores run by Afghans here stock up on these treasured items, while the Afghan naan is ubiquitous, whether in shops, restaurants, or being sold by street vendors, known colloquially as naanwais. These naanwais have become such a familiar sight that when you see them and their baked breads you know you’ve arrived at Little Afghanistan.
Speaking of restaurants, Kabul Delhi is an institution of the place, and is thronged daily by tourists and locals alike. On the menu is traditional Afghan fare, comprising dishes like Mantu (meat dumplings), Uzbeki and other pilafs that come steaming and loaded with veggies and occasionally bejewelled with pomegranate, as well as all manner of kebabs, goshts, and flatbreads.
There are several other eateries, but it’s Kabul Delhi that provides the most comprehensive guide to the country’s fare. And really, with the locals being so pleasant, and the present weather being decidedly not so, this is probably the best time to get acquainted with Little Afghanistan, in the heart of Dilli.