For a boy hailing from a small village of Bona in Munsiyari, Pitthoragarh, which had no roads or transport facilities, to have grown up to scale the highest peak in the world seven times over is a big achievement.
The 49-year-old Love Raj Singh Dharmshaktu first summited Everest in 1998 as part of the first Indian Civilian Expedition. In the last over two decades, he has scaled several peaks, including Kunchenjunga, Kamet, Abigamain, Sathopanth, Bhurphu Dhura, Mumatsang Kangri, Nanda Kot, Nanda Bhanar, and Trishul.
At present, this Border Security Force (BSF) officer is on his eighth trip to Mt Everest, which he is undertaking as a part of the Central Armed Police Forces (CAPF) Mt Everest and Mt Lhotse Expedition 2021. He spoke to The Sunday Standard just before embarking on the trip last month. Excerpts:
What pulls you to Mt Everest again and again?
It is the Sagarmatha (goddess mother of the Earth), the highest, most alluring and the most powerful. She is like a mother to me. I firmly believe these high mountain places have a magnetic effect that keeps attracting you. I believe only if you get called, you can go.
When did you first develop an interest in mountaineering?
During my growing up years in Uttarakhand, I was often intrigued at seeing the clouds drifting on top of the mountains. My mother further fuelled my curiosity by saying that those clouds were rising up to worship the mountain gods. In hindsight, I wonder whether my curiosity got satisfied through these expeditions, or did it get aroused more!
Tell us about your first expedition.
It fell into my lap, when I was 17, and working as a luggage helper to people en route Nanda Khat. Once, a helper couldn’t make it and I pitched in. That was the first time I experienced a glacier. I can’t forget that magical scene till today.
How many expeditions have you done till now? Which one has been the toughest and the easiest?
I have done over 55 expeditions. While none of these was easy, the toughest one was the unclimbed Easter ridge route of Everest from Tibet, China.
Any special preparations before a climb, regarding fitness and food?
Proper diet is most important. Exercise develops stamina and strength. Going for smaller peaks and passes helps one get exposed to altitude slowly.
Any advice for budding mountaineers?
Do mountaineering for the love of it. Preserve the environment by following the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles.
What are your other interests/hobbies?
I enjoy listening to music and singing along. More so, as that is the only source of entertainment while climbing up. There is nothing like good music, and watching the sunrise from those heights.
What precautions have you taken this time, given Covid-19 protocols?
The basic and must-follow protocols of social distancing, wearing a mask, hand sanitisation and hygiene will be strictly followed. My physical exercise schedule and routine have kept my health in discipline so far.
ON TOP OF THE WORLD
1st 1998, as part of the first Indian civilian expedition.
2nd 2006, with a BSF team.
3rd 2009, led a team of NIM to Everest.
4th 2012, as a member of Eco Everest Expedition.
5th 2013, he reached the summit again.
6th 2017, led an ONGC team.
7th 2018, led a 15 member BSF team.