As you drive down from Cuttack to Bhubaneswar comes Pahala which has a stretch with lines of shops selling Rosogolla. Just before that comes Phulnakara which is known for its Dhabas selling “Mutton-Rice ''. The most popular is Nana but there are others like Bhaina. Have not done that route for a long time. But was reminded of the taste on a recent visit to Odisha Niwas in Chanakyapuri. It has become my go-to “State Bhavans'' in Delhi after Andhra Bhavan, which my ancient worn-out stomach lining can no longer handle. The canteen has now been taken over by a private operator, who opened the doors for walk-in guests after a long recess. The large prawns and crabs, which they claim are directly imported from Chilika, are to die for. However, the tender mutton curry is for goat lovers. Still, ask my Twitter buddy Anshuman Rath, who will say there is nothing like Mudhi Mansa that you get in Mayurbhanj.
The Pahari (Hilly) goats of the region feed on Sal leaves, which apparently gives its meat a certain texture and taste. More interestingly – Mayurbhanj people do not have their mutton with rice, the staple of the region, but they eat it with Mudhi (puffed rice). The Mudhi is mixed with the top oil of the mutton gravy, chopped onions, coriander leaves and green chillies. The Mutton is double-fried. After cooking it as a curry, the meat pieces are taken out and once again sautéed in a wok or pan. The ‘jus’ is served separately with a sweet and sour raita like curd-based chutney.
Up North in the Terai region of Nepal and adjoining borders of Bihar – dry uncooked Chura (flattened rice) and Mutton is a common snack. Taas as it is called is a dry preparation of broiled mutton grilled on tawa. Though Nepalese are fond of Buff (Buffalo Meat), Bandel (wild boar) and chicken too, ‘Khasi Ko Masu’ (goat meat) scores over others. Unlike in India - they have their goat with skin on. It took me some time to acquire the taste but started loving it thereafter. During my tenure in Nepal on the drive down from the hills to the plains - Narayanghat in Chitwan, which is famous for its Taas, used to be a compulsory halt. Plates of mutton with raw mustard oil drizzled on top were devoured with chura, quarters of onion, rato khursani (red chilli) and jeera powder - accompanied by whisky at shanty bars.
Mutton I have always maintained has been the traditional meat of choice in India. Beef is eaten by a small section of the population. Besides, historically, cows were never reared for slaughter in our country. Chicken was not popular before the advent of commercial poultry and imported breeds of broilers and layers. Pork was a rarity that was consumed either by the anglicised gentry or certain castes in the lower economic strata and tribals. Goats and sheep, on the other hand, were bred for meat. Thus mutton evokes emotions that other forms of meat do not across regions and communities. Even among the Mughals and indigenous Muslims the finest meat delicacies were developed with Mutton.
Talking of Muslim influence - some of the finest meat dishes come from Kashmir. I have not met a Kashmiri yet who would prefer beef or chicken over mutton. Apart from the famous Goshtaba and Rishta (both made of pounded - not minced - mutton) Kashmiri Tabak Maaz is a sublime delicacy. Fatty ribs of lamb - first steamed and broiled are grilled with a subtle mix of spices - cinnamon, cloves, hing, ginger powder and aniseeds. Even better is the Kashmiri Pandit variant called Kabargah. Here, instead of steaming, the ribs are slow-cooked in milk and saffron for hours before frying in a sinful amount of ghee. However, the most abused Kashmiri Meat preparation is Rogan Josh. What is passed off as Rogan Josh at restaurants is an abomination of the original recipe using an overload of onions and tomatoes. Authentic Rogan Josh is a thin curry - which gets its colour from either dried flowers or root of Alkanna tinctoria (ratan jot) - used by the pundits - or cockscomb flower that is preferred by the Muslims. The deseeded Kashmiri Chillies add to the effect sans the heat. Similar is the story of Rajasthani Lal Maas. It is a pity that few have heard of Rajasthani “Jungli Maas” - that very few restaurants in Rajasthan serve or know of. If you haven’t been there, on a trip to Jaipur do not miss a meal at Handi on MI Road, which is probably one of the few restaurants that serve a close clone of the original. If only for this recipe - one should invest in the Maharaja of Sailana’s book https://www.amazon.in/Cooking-Delights-Maharajas-Princely-Sailana/dp/8187111143
The stories of Mutton Kebabs (the Burra, Seekh and Boti being the most famous), Kormas, Biryani or the ubiquitous Handi, Aachari, Bhuna Gosht are all too well known. So is the Bengali Kosha Mangsho, though it can be a subject of dissertation along with “Niramish or Bhog-er/ Pujo-r Mangsho” cooked without onion and garlic. Calcuttans, of course, go into raptures over their Mutton Chaamp ( a variant of the Korma) and Rezala However, the most interesting development is the resurgence of little known hyper-local mutton preparations. Champaran Mutton - hailing from Motihari in Bihar - which this columnist can take some credit for discovery (read Why only the Indian Goat gets my gut) is now a rage in many North Indian cities. Cooked in sealed earthen pots with mustard oil, whole spices and pods of garlic, it has aroused culinary chauvinism among Biharis giving the humble Litti a different gourmet stature. More interesting is its close cousin the Azamgarh Mutton made famous by the Kalika Chain in Lucknow and other cities of Uttar Pradesh including Varanasi and Prayagraj.
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As is the case with so many culinary treasures of our great nation not many know of the popularity of the Goat in Tamizh land. One has heard of the fiery Andhra or Telugu Mutton Fry or the Mangalorean Mutton Sukka. Much to my surprise I learnt how intrinsic Goats are to non-vegetarian Tamizh cuisine. Not just Mutton Biryani - people down south are greater connoisseurs of mutton than their average meat eating brethren on the north of the Vindhyas. No part of the goat from skull, brains, intestine, skin, organs (liver, kidneys, testicles, offal) and hooves are given a miss. when you are in Kovai or Coimbatore next - be my guest (but pay the bill) at Haribhavanam or Valarmathi Mess near the race course. “Santushtam” guaranteed. Let’s make the GOAT great again !!
Sandip Ghose, Author and Current Affairs Commentator. Twitter handle @SandipGhose