As one enters Arunachal Pradesh through Bhalukpong, the gateway to the state, one is sure to feel a change in the air and with the Kameng river flowing alongside the road, the journey suddenly becomes serene! Before diving head first into our holiday we pull over in Dirang to acclimate. Unlike the bustling hill stations, here, you feel grounded. During our down time here, we made our way to the famous Dirang monastery, surrounded by hills, which does not have much in the way of show but has more to do with the ambience. It paints an unrefined picture of kids playing football on open fields and monks going about with their routine. What better way to relax, rejuvenate and prepare oneself for freezing weather in Dirang than a hot spring bath and a stroll around apple orchards.
A few kilometres away lies the picturesque Sangti Valley, which is considered to be one of the most peaceful spots in the region and for good reason. Spacious and uninfluenced, it allows one to witness nature in all of its rawness without any distractions. There are streams running through the valley, surrounded by yaks grazing in the fields and some wooden houses here and there. A homestay feels innate when it comes to vacationing in such a valley. The absence of network connections makes everything more precious — from the sound of raindrops on wooden roofs to the dream-like movement of clouds in the sky and even occasional sightings of roaming horses in open fields.
The journey from Sangti to Tawang involves experiences beyond boundaries, both in terms of geography and scale. The journey through Sela Pass is when the green surroundings transform into snowy landscapes. Sela Pass rises to more than 13,000 feet with temperature ranging from 0°C to -10°C making it extremely cold. Snow-covered streets and unfaltering fog will guide you to the surreal Sela Lake, which holds deep spiritual significance for the local Monpa community and is also counted among the sacred ‘101 lakes’ of Tibetan Buddhism. Tawang is the most eminent spot in the whole of West Kameng, which lies at the crossroads of culture and devotion. Located here, the monumental Tawang Monastery is among the largest monasteries in India and its size alone can intimidate an unseasoned visitor. However, once inside, one can hear soft chants reverberating through the monastery and the sights stretch to a great distance towards the towering mountains around. Just off this location, lies the Tawang War Memorial, which offers a different story — a stupa built to commemorate the Indian martyrs who sacrificed their lives in the 1962 Indo-China war.
Our journey then brings us to the Bumla Pass, close to the Indo-China border, revealing another side to this adventure. Interactions with the army personnel based at this point reveal much about this region that no Google search could ever do justice to. On our way back from here, our car follows the sound of flowing water from Jang waterfall and we find ourselves amidst greenery that surrounds it, bringing back the din of movement after days of walking through silent snowy areas.
Before concluding our vacation, we choose to spend a couple of days in the tranquility of the secluded village of Shergaon. Popular for its stunning Himalayan landscapes, this destination offers extensive apple orchards and rich Sherdukpen (indigenous tribe) cultural heritage. Besides its 400-year-old Zengbu Gompa Monastery, the village is also enveloped in vibrant rhododendron blooms and so, we choose to spend the final leg of our trip here. For those who love flowery drinks — might we suggest taking the local special buransh (a traditional red Himalayan beverage made from rhododendron arboreum) as souvenirs from the trip!