The Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves are a remarkable complex of rock-cut sanctuaries located just outside Bhubaneswar, Odisha. Dating back to the 1st and 2nd centuries BCE, they represent some of the earliest and most significant examples of Jain monastic architecture in India. Carved out of two adjacent hills (Udayagiri, meaning ‘Sunrise Hill’ and Khandagiri, meaning ‘Broken Hill’), these caves served as residential blocks for Jain monks during the reign of the powerful Kalinga emperor, Kharavela.
Udayagiri, boasting 18 caves, is the more extensive and ornately decorated of the two hills. Rani Gumpha is the largest and most majestic cave with a double-story monastery featuring elaborate friezes depicting royal processions, hunting scenes, dance performances in a royal court and daily life. Hathi Gumpha is famous for its 17-line brahmi inscription by king Kharavela. This inscription is a primary historical source for early Indian history, detailing the king’s military conquests and public works. Ganesha Gumpha is notable for its beautiful sculptures of elephants and a relief of Lord Ganesha. The Bagh Gumpha is carved to look like the open mouth of a tiger, a favourite spot for unique photos.
Khandagiri, featuring 15 caves, sits directly across from Udayagiri and offers a panoramic view of Bhubaneswar. Ananta Gumpha sports unique carvings of women, elephants and a figure often identified as the goddess Lakshmi. Navamuni Gumpha contains sculptures of nine Jain tirthankaras and was renovated in the 11th century by the Somavamshi dynasty. Barabhuji Gumpha is named after the 12-armed (bara-bhuja) figures of Sasana devis found alongside the 24 tirthankaras. The caves are not temples but linas (monastic cells). They are mostly simple, small and low-ceilinged, designed for the austere lifestyle of monks. However, the facades are often decorated with toranas, dwarapalas and other carvings of animals, trees and flowers. Visit early in the morning to catch the Sunrise Hill (Udayagiri) in its best light and to avoid the midday heat, as there is significant climbing involved.
